PFW – Zadig & Voltaire S/S2020
Cecilia Bönstrom returns with an air of 'nocturne-chic' for the new Z&V summer collection
Zadig & Voltaire is one of the French luxury fashion labels that continues to revel in it’s ‘best-kept-secret’ status. People have organically discovered Z&V rather than it being heavily marketed to them, and once people feel like they themselves have actively ‘found’ something that appeals to who they are they become as fanatical as iPhone customers. One person to have become hooked on that Z&V aesthetic is fashion icon Kate Moss. As we revealed earlier this year, she has become intimately involved in designing accessories for the brand as well being signed on as a brand ambassador.
This Moss influence was seen in full focus for the new S/S2020 collection at the PFW show at the Paris Ritz – a favourite spot for the British Supermodel. Familiar looks all had that subtle but sharp edge of contemporary modernity that makes so many people around the world die-hard fans. This collection further reached that desirable holy grail of ‘looking fashionable without looking like you’re trying too hard’. Take for example the virgin white layered frilly dress. Cinched at the waist with a studded white leather belt; from a distance and worn with ankle boots it’s just a beautiful and familiar look with a modern interpretation.
Look closer and you will notice details like subtle striping across the bodice and only one cap-sleeved shoulder – the kind of details that appeals to the creative centres and breeds loyalty and affection.
Virgin white and frilly designs made a number of guest appearances on the catwalk, almost daring future customers to add their own colours to the Z&V canvas. This aesthetic was best exemplified with the crushed leather jacket featuring exaggerated frilling along the front and bisected by a row of contrast buttons. Teamed with a matching crushed leather skirt, all that was missing was the electric guitar to complete the look.
That ‘rock chic’ vibe Z&V is so well known for was more evident with the slouchy leopard-print top half-tucked into soft black leather jeans, turned up to the calves, and worn with sexy black shoelace-strappy sandals. Or with the blood red biker jacket worn with casual blue denim jeans and white strappy sandals.
However, as most of us know, black denotes ‘evening’ more often than not in fashion, and while there were some beautiful dresses and trouser suits on display, Z&V’s summer evenings next year will mostly be about the legs. Tailored shorts – teamed with sharp tailored jackets, crushed leather waistcoats or simple blouses – aimed to prove shorts won’t just be for the marathon runners next summer. But the main highlight of the collection was the new silhouette that was introduced – the overlong sleeve. Whether it was on the sleeves of satin trouser suits, tuxedo jackets or jersey tops it was the stand-out theme that capped a fantastic collection already riding high on style.
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