Schiaparelli SS23 – Paris Fashion Week
Charlotte Lewis reviews the new collection by Daniel Roseberry at PFW
For creative director Daniel Roseberry, the importance of wearability combined with the extraordinary became paramount for the Schiaparelli SS23 collection at Paris Fashion Week. As a House known for its surrealism and avant-garde aesthetic, the new story – often referencing the late Elsa Schiaparelli herself – was another wondrous journey in shape, colour and form.
The new offering was not simply an accessible version of the couture line. It was instead a considered and encompassing exploration of all aspects of a woman’s life. Be it in the office, at that evening event or even travelling, Roseberry adapted to the everyday and did so with style.
Inspiration came through the designer observing how the women in Il Pellicano, the Italian resort in Porto Ercole, dressed themselves for the day and the night. This uniform featured oversized silhouettes, clean lines and ‘unapologetically glamorous jewellery.’ The classic Schiaparelli gold was re-invented in gold-leaf hand print, hammered and anatomically engraved styles, with this eye to adaptability invariably carrying the subtext throughout the whole collection.
Elsewhere, striking evening gowns in satin and hammered silks, liquid viscose, and vibrant acetates fulfilled the requirements of one half of real contemporary living. The other half was catered to by the crisp white cotton shirts, clean-lined wool pencil skirts, and trousers in a multitude of cuts and fabrics.
A key feature to the narrative was the delicate tailoring, incorporating new takes on the human anatomy, the bijoux and trompe l’oeil hair. With iconic codes such as the gold silk embroidered measuring tape and new versions of the distinctive Facebag included for RTW, these were looks made to represent the women who came before, those who would wear them today and those who are yet to come.
Roseberry perfectly captured the all-too-elusive inspiration within the everyday, whilst simultaneously providing an elevated luxury experience for today’s new woman. Schiaparelli SS23 was creative, expressive, whimsical, original and shone through the perceived mundanity of ‘normal life.’
For more information on Schiaparelli SS23, click here
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