Saint Laurent Women’s Winter 21 by Anthony Vaccarello
Latisha Fleckenstein journeys to a new world with Anthony Vaccarello's new collection for Saint Laurent's A/W season
Monumental. A great word to describe the Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello Where the Silver Wind Blows show for the A/W 2021 collection. Shot by Nathalie Canguilhem, the 12-minute fashion show showcases a live runway across unpredictable landscapes. There is no doubt that the pandemic had fashion reaching for new heights in creativity, and it was on full display here. With many unable to host in-person live shows, creative directors are exploring endless ways to bring their collections to life. Some might even say that this new-found exploration allows for concepts around the collection to be fully conveyed and realised. Here, Vaccarello took a really deep dive into his creative journey.
Models fiercely walked through hostile-looking but natural ground to bring the Saint Laurent winter collection to vivid life. With determined expressions, the models looked determined and unfazed by the wild winds and rocky terrains that surround them. Everyone involved was charting new territory for a new era. “Serious matters push you to take other things less seriously,” remarked Vaccarello. “Finding the balance while staying on the edge is a sophisticated aptitude.”
The A/W collection shakes up the Saint Laurent bourgeoisie code, deceptively hanging on the cusp of right and wrong. As a visual juxtaposition the scenery, the collection features a glam opulence that references the sixties, with ultra-mini hemlines, classic tweed suites and thigh-high boots paired with gleaming cascades of fantasy jewellery. The collection also features recurring furs denoting a kind of comfortable elegance. However, a palpable lightness was never far away with the inclusion of pieces like metallic bodysuits in bold audacious colours that clashed against the cloudy, charcoal scene. Effortless and as imperfectly perfect as the classic 90’s wardrobe inspired by cult synth punk-rocker Peaches. The bourgeoisie flair mixed into an air of cult looks; a careful yet fluent cross-section between kitsch and luxurious.
The irrepressible lightness of the collection stood in exciting contrast to its serious ambitions and challenged preconceptions. Against the rocky hills of the Moroccan dessert and surrounded by black stone, dark sand, tumbling waterfalls, cloudy mist and dramatic soundtrack, the Saint Laurent A/W2021 collection was presented with drama and flair for those ready to take on the new world.
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