14th June 2019

Saint Laurent Menswear 2020 Review

Anthony Vaccarello brings Paris to Malibu via Marrakech. By Chidozie Obasi

For his S/S 2020 menswear collection, Anthony Vaccarello took his French troop on a whimsical journey to Malibu, staging his show on an ebonized boardwalk runway.  The silhouettes were strong and empowered by dusky textures with pops of colour, connecting the faithful Saint Laurent lover with an unerringly youthful feel.  The starting focal point for the collection recalled Marrakech in the ‘70s, reimagined for 21st century Los Angeles, a city that Vaccarello first visited at the age of 14 and has returned to numerous times.  Although one might not consider those elements imperative, both locations lent themselves to a somewhat Bohemian, free-spirited and illusionary landscape.

French flair, North African spirit and American glamour were merged together with heterogeneous considerations and utter mindfulness to powerfully express themes through the use of colour and motifs across the entire collection.  Typical of Saint Laurent, there were carefully crafted ensembles that exuded an enduring and sophisticated charm.  Tasselled hoods, djellaba shirts and embroidered detailing amplified the rigour channelled by the French Maison into a more phlegmatic approach to tailoring.

A ruthless ‘vengeance of tailoring’ or simply a thunderstorm of sartorial classicism?  Perhaps a little of both?  After all, how could one possibly persuade a generation born into the streetwear wave to opt for slick elegance quite so abruptly?  There were pivotal references for the collection that included Mick Jagger’s Rolling Stones circa 1975, dressed in gloss and glitter.   But Vaccarello went even further than that and took the opportunity to present a more androgyne version of ‘70s glamour that seamlessly reflected today’s modern trends and aesthetics.

Gender fluidity was, unsurprisingly, at its idealistic core, as noticeable in most of the designs.  The ensembles were divided into sparkling sections of hues, with a nod to notions of understated chromatic chaos.  The visual anatomy described by the designer was exemplified by the perfect proportions, purposeful silhouettes and sensational cuts, made to gratify an eclectic, demanding and ultimately grateful cutting-edge demographic.


To watch the Saint Laurent Menswear 2020 show click here.

Click here to read our other Menswear 2020 reviews.

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