22nd July 2021

Saint Laurent Menswear S/S2022

The new Saint Laurent menswear collection allows us to reflect on a natural creative director

Anyone following Anthony Vaccarello’s career at Saint Laurent will know just how important art and culture are to not only who he is as a designer, but also who he is as a person.  No doubt, it’s that very same creative nature that has led Saint Laurent to detour from standard convention and take its own path within the fashion industry at the moment.  So, in the middle of July, we were treated to a show film from Venice for the menswear S/S2022 collection.  And taking literal centre stage of the catwalk stood an incredible large-scale mirrored installation from celebrated artist Doug Aitken.

The angles on all the mirrored surfaces perhaps reflected on the fragmentation and chaos of life right now, before leading to the seemingly calm tranquility of the central space dominated by lush greenery.  Vaccarello’s collection played off these ideas and seemed to smooth out those restrictive jagged lines with fluid silhouettes and fabrics.  Long and lean was sometimes made longer with high-heeled platform boots that again blurred the lines and challenged perceptions of the ‘norm’ for menswear.  Lace appeared throughout the collection – even down to the socks – while elsewhere, frill detailing combined with slim black jeans or unfinished denim shorts to add an extra dimension to the young rock star look.

Of course, black dominated the palette, but when the colours did come they always met the anticipation.  The electric blue suit will be an eye-popper on the summer streets next year, as will the shirt and trouser twin set.  The loose and comfortable blouson jacket featured a multicoloured flower motif on a base of black, and the beautiful deep red velvet bomber worked as perfect accents on the main canvas.  The installation that was the backdrop for the collection is now available for open viewing by the public until July 30th as part of Venice’s Architectural Biennale.  Film, art, architecture, fashion design, show production.  Anthony Vaccarello – multimedia artist.


Watch the full Saint Laurent Menswear S/S2022 show at THE FALLtv

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