Prada Womenswear AW23 – Milan Fashion Week
Michael Meir-Wright looks back at the MFW show from fashion's dynamic duo
For the Prada womenswear AW23 at Milan Fashion Week, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons dialled back on the theatrics and leaned heavily into cut and creativity. The new collection, Taking Care, was a love letter to nurses, cleaners, educators and the other unsung heroes of society whose contributions are all too often unappreciated. But here they were venerated as life’s ordinary heroes, deserving of their opulence as well our admiration.
To begin with, the Fondazione Prada was transformed for the show. What started as a darkened, brutalist space became an arena of light when the ceiling rose to reveal descending bouquets of lilies wrapped around bold orange pillars. Prada and Simons were, quite literally, looking to give the unrecognised and the overlooked their flowers in a gesture of gratitude and respect.
Bridalwear found itself reconceptualised as part the new quotidian wardrobe. Intricately embroidered white skirts with lace appliqués opened the presentation, while crisp white shirt-dresses were adorned with the most traditional of bridal colours. Styled with simple sweaters and jackets with clean lines, the proposal was as clear as day: why celebrate love just the once when you could to it every day?
The visual language of the collection came through a uniform aesthetic, but interpreted via the lens of eveningwear elegance. Military flourishes were found throughout the story; from earthy, muted colour palettes to floral inspired epaulettes embellishing tailored shirts and asymmetrical gowns. The silhouettes explored the protective nature of such regalia with down-filled skirts and woollen cocoon-like knitwear. Structured leather and suede jackets conjured up thoughts of hardy urban armour, and tailored utilitarian trousers and skirts spoke of precise soldier-y discipline.
To some, high fashion might seem out of reach or even exclusionary but, for Prada womenswear AW23, everyone is worthy of elegance, no matter the walk of life. And, those who make sure the world keeps turning are the most deserving of all. After recent times where the globe’s key workers kept society from falling apart, this recognition was long overdue.
To read our review of the Emporio Armani show from MFW, click here
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