Emporio Armani Womenswear AW23 – Milan Fashion Week
Jodi Bhachu-Smith reviews the new collection from the Italian giant
Smiling is infectious, Spike Milligan once wrote, a truth made evident in the latest Emporio Armani womenswear AW23 collection at Milan Fashion Week. To underline the notion, a giant image of a woman with a radiant smile watched over the catwalk as the cast showcased next winter’s story. The smile was mirrored by each model to add a fresh and light twist to Mr. Armani’s classic vision.
Under the roof of his own Armani/Teatro, the cues came from the costuming in Elizabethan theatre; in looks designed to emphasise the individual rather than the character. Skirts with flamboyant doublets, waist-cinching bodice-esque belts and grosgrain strap evening tops evoked images of lovingly crafted stage wardrobes.
The codes on which the iconic House style was built – the synergy between the masculine and feminine – were reflected in sharp tailored jackets paired with voluminous bottoms. This dialogue continued through to short hems on boyish coats worn atop bare legs. While asymmetric buttoning and daring looks in glittering black sequin added lyrical flourishes at regular stops along the way.
Shimmering velvet and iridescent silk taffeta sat harmoniously alongside simple worsted wool and shaggy mohair to demonstrate Mr. Armani’s gift for textures. As evening moved to night, mini shift dresses in waves of black exposed acres of arm and leg to guarantee all the right reactions when you take off the coat.
The Emporio Armani womenswear AW23 colour palette juxtaposed waves of monochrome with deep magentas, teals and plums. And, this spectrum of choice carried through to the accompanying accessories, which ranged from chic leather mini bags to relaxed suede shoppers. Given the shape of the catwalk the models were walking, perhaps it should have come as no surprise that, with Mr. Armani, everything comes full circle.
To read our review of the FENDI show from MFW, click here
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