Moschino AW23 – Milan Fashion Week
Jodi Bhachu-Smith looks back at Jeremy Scott's new collection from MFW
Jeremy Scott has always been a designer to defy conventions, and this spirt continued for his latest Moschino AW23 collection at Milan Fashion Week. This time, Scott’s inspiration came from master surrealist Salvador Dalí via an irascible ‘aristo-punk’ diversion. It’s perhaps no coincidence they all share the same rebellious approach to the status quo.
Scott’s talent for subverting the norms was on full display as he delivered a narrative reflecting societal uncertainty. The collection’s opening chapters were informed by Dalí’s The Persistence of Memory – colloquially known as the ‘Melting Clocks’.By playing with distorted proportions, the designs used the body of each model as its own canvas to drape with Houndstooth patterns, liquified pearls and languid gold chain belts carrying the House name.
As the tale unfolded, we were introduced to pieces with floral prints in the same effect, with contoured hemlines and gold buttoning marking our transition from Dalí to punk. The tribute to the icon that was Dame Vivienne Westwood that came next revealed more of the American designer’s subtexts underwritten by Moschino’s famous codes.
This translated into exaggerated spikes and corseted gowns alongside fishnet one-pieces layered under bijoux dresses and golden capes. Of course, it wouldn’t be punk without the addition of the famous Moschino leather biker jacket in a number of new variations, or even worn as a floor-sweeping skirt with a wide oversized belt acting as a bandeau top.
When we passed through to bright lights of the night, there were multicoloured jewels splashed across deep purple satin bolero jackets, cascading down tulle ballgowns and adorning sparkling Twenties-era dresses fit Gatsby’s next party.
In the end, everything was just as Scott had intended; a skilfully twisted vision on the world of Moschino that was creative, playful and entertaining, but never without meaning.
To read our review of the Ferrari show from MFW, click here
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