Ferrari AW23 – Milan Fashion Week
Amy Pateman examines Rocco Iannone's new collection for the luxury marque
“Beauty is the pleasure that derives from speed,” states creative director Rocco Iannone, who renewed his stature at Milan Fashion Week with his Ferrari SS23 collection. Iannone’s new vision reflected a style of transitions, changes and forward motion. It was a story where simple profiles became complex volumes and fluid lines came with contemporary contours.
The show took place in the historical setting of Palazzo Citterio, a location naturally symbolic of both the beauty of 18th century Italian art and modern industrial design. For the first time ever, it hosted an official event before becoming a permanent exhibition space. Iannone’s own exhibition continued an expression of Ferrari’s artistic emotion and meticulous craftsmanship that has been core to the brand since he was appointed in 2019.
O)n this journey we were reminded of the constant tension between the moment before and the moment after. Simple silhouettes evolved continuously to manifest into fuller shapes and structures. Workwear, an essential part of the Ferrari fashion universe, influenced tailoring in novel, hybrid ways.
Outerwear in super-soft wool and nylon and Lambskin fabrics added a modern sensibility to luxury car coats and double-layered jackets. Bomber jackets and driving suits in recycled satin were reimagined in contemporary forms to create different theories on functional aesthetics. Canvas denim shirts and jackets were ‘spray-dyed’ to mimic the stages of car bodywork spraying.
Throughout it all, an optimistic pink motif embellished the colour palette as a transitional shade in anticipation of the universally famous Ferrari red. And the signature bags were revealed in new colours and sizes to complete the Ferrari AW23 picture.
“The movement that stems from an idea,” Iannone continued on beauty in the show notes. “The aesthetic that captures the uniqueness of the transient, the sign of what is about to take place”. It would seem clear that the next thing likely to take place is the collection moving off the shelves this winter.
To read our review of the Bottega Veneta show from MFW, click here
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