Bottega Veneta AW23 – Milan Fashion Week
Meg Parrott reviews the new collection from Matthieu Blazy at MFW
Everyone was invited to the Bottega Veneta AW23 ‘parade and procession,’ said creative director Matthieu Blazy at Milan Fashion Week. As one of the hottest tickets in town, the spirit of the House’s Italian homeland proved to be inspirational for the French designer – mark the final chapter of his Italia trilogy. We were treated to a masterful 81-look love letter to the ‘techniques, motifs and creatures’ of the past reinterpreted for today.
Akin to the notions that catalysed this narrative, the tale was full of characters – and character – celebrating the multiplicity of styles that intertwine Italy’s cities. Sculptures by Boccioni peppered the catwalk, while subtleties from paintings by Botticelli came modernised and refreshed. A rousing display of shape and construction, the collection immortalised the necessity of sartorial movement. The motivation seemed to be to clothe the muse in motion, with the show’s progression echoing a rolling day and its subsequent uniforms.
For the early risers, bed socks crafted from the House’s trademark woven leather welcomed the story’s beginnings. They stretched the concept of archetypal domestic wear into new and complex forms, as did the pinstripe pyjama shirts and silken chemise that came with them.
Bottega’s day started in earnest with structured leather suiting, architectural croc trenches and floor-skimming knits. Exaggerated proportions and clean silhouettes then continued to elevate the daily wardrobe in the minds of its new commuter. Beautiful textures and elongated waists introduced the evening garb and the more fantastical shapes.
The effect was to strike a harmonious balance between the ornamental and the chicly understated. From high-necked knitwear with scallop detailing and feather-lined evening gowns in mint green, to matching faux fur and feather coats, Blazy’s invitation was obviously for those who live against the grain.
“Who will you meet in the street? Who will amaze you?” he asks us in the show notes. After this latest offering, it will no doubt be the fashionable passer-by in full Bottega Veneta AW23.
To read our review of the Prada show from MFW, click here
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