MM6 Maison Margiela – Milan Fashion Week
Caitlin Coughlan-Léon reviews the new summer collection from MFW
The motif of the MM6 Maison Margiela SS23 collection at Milan Fashion Week was clear from the show’s opening – ballet-core was king (queen?). At the Auditorium di Milano Fondazione Cariplo, denim wide-leg jeans and jersey bodycons were purposely deconstructed with micro-tears and scuffs, imitating the look of a well-loved dancer gear while simultaneously allowing the body to breathe. Balletic movement was incorporated throughout in the show, in the ribbed knit boleros, oversized shirt-dresses and loose silhouettes.
In true Maison Margiela fashion, the rules of styling were rewritten through ingenious layering and intriguing composition. Aptly accompanied by the orchestral sounds of Igor Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring, the models laced through the audience in looks that were stacked, with shrunken spaghetti strap tops pulled down to cinch roomy notch-lapel coats at the waist, and ballet dancer leotards left unclasped over bleached denim maxi skirts.
The colour palette was muted, faded and even washed out in places. The baselines of black and white were understudied by faded purples and cool neutrals. Occasionally, shocks of bright pinks and blues broke up the proceedings and added extra interest to the story.
Thigh-high sock-boots featuring the French brand’s signature trail runner rubber soles brought an edge of glamour while, in a continuing collaboration with outdoor sports brand Salomon that began with the AW22 collection, the ADV Skin 5 running vest was redesigned and revamped to add a contrasting grunge twist.
The story ended with a parade of fuchsia boots and pointe shoes that cleverly ‘stained’ ivory satin coats and wide-leg trousers and accentuated the core philosophy of the brand – clothes should be ‘lived in’. As the show notes stated: whether for running, dancing or lounging, these garments are not ready to wear – they are ready when worn. All that remains is for us to be ready for them next spring.
For more information on MM6 Maison Margiela SS23, click here
Click here to read the Diesel Milan Fashion Week review