MFW – Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini: ‘Jet Set Romance’
Lorenzo Serafini's romantic nature shines through in the new collection for Philosophy
‘Lorenzo Serafini’ is exactly the kind of name that trips of the tongue and hits the air with a certain touch of Latin romanticism about it. Since about 2014 Serafini has been quietly building on the legacy started by Alberta Ferretti since she stepped down from the creative director position to concentrate on her own eponymous label. In that time he’s been building a clean, luxurious and unfussy aesthetic that has always sought to make women confidently beautiful, not just the object of immediate attention. His new collection for Milan Fashion Week draws from that very deep well and, coincidentally, adds some of that romance his name invokes to it.
The new S/S2020 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini collection recalls the carefree, ultra-feminine styles of a not-so-long bygone era. Serafini drew inspiration from the jet set era of Monte Carlo in the 70s and 80s to create pieces that literally floated down the catwalk on a bed of soft-focus chic.
“For SS20, I looked to Monaco in the late 70s and early 80s, drawing inspiration from Princesses Stephanie and Caroline’s attitudes. This collection plays on the dualities of their natures and styles – Stephanie’s more rebellious edge Caroline’s classic romantic elegance – and brings them together in my Philosophy woman.” – Lorenzo Serafini.
To that end, we were treated to some of the most beautiful silhouettes of the week. Long high-waisted denim jeans covered the shoes to allow only the toe-caps to peep out and were worn with fine-rib knits to create a versatile day look made for all the finest PR offices. There were off-white chiffon dresses that screamed ‘romantic fantasy’ as they hinted at the bare skin skin underneath as they sashayed by. The striped herringbone jackets cinched at the waist with a gold metal belt accentuated delicate hour glass silhouettes to fairytale proportions.
And the blue and white frilly dress with the plunging V-neckline was about as pretty as you’re ever going to get this side of an actual real-life rose.
The rose motif was a theme throughout the collection. The denim coloured rose at the centre of the gorgeous little strapless red dress was just the icing on the cake that was needed. Elsewhere it gave a little added femininity to the padded shoulders of the denim jackets.
But it was the tailoring where Philosophy really came into its own. The boxy double-breasted tuxedo suit was exquisite masculine simplicity itself, while the black and white frilly Bardot dress that was gathered at the waist with a huge stone encrusted black bow tipped the scale right back over to the other end of girlish fun.
There were so many different types of desirable silhouettes to choose from in the collection there’s a really good chance a number of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini outfits will end up nestled in your wardrobe next summer – just so you can feel satisfied you’ve covered all your bases.
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