13th June 2019

LFWM 2020 – A-Cold-Wall*

ACW* creative director Samuel Ross is on a mission to modernise utilitarian streetwear. By Chidozie Obasi

On the last day of LFWM S/S 2020, A-Cold-Wall* creative director Samuel Ross brought a highly technical ‘street-meets-chic’ collection to the table.  Taking place at Printworks London, the space was left open to members of the public who were able to register via the A-Cold-Wall* official website.  The democratisation of fashion, perhaps?

This season’s show offered an important move towards the goal of “stopping the conservatism within fashion”, as Ross explained to the press during a backstage interview.  Entitled “Material Study for Social Architecture”, the collection incorporated the four core elements of clay, lead, water and glass into every look, seeking to theorise on a paramount connection shared between the definable and indefinable.  The four composites were accentuated throughout the collection in various ways, from the use of their specific hues to inspiring flocks of apparel shapes and silhouettes.  Fluid outerwear pieces and structured tailoring prevailed on the catwalk, analogous to the label’s utilitarian yet technical philosophy.

Pieces were elevated with assorted zipper closures, a multitude of utility pockets and hardware, along with raw hem detailing and asymmetric panels.  Moreover, leg-wear dynamically stormed the show, which saw technical pants with multiple straps being offered up.  Overall, the palette predominantly comprised of tones of beige, white, black, red and aqua.  Chest rigs, harnesses and everyday carry-alls further bolstered the looks to create an original and compelling overall vision of near-future urban street fashion.


For more on A-Cold-Wall* click here.

Click here to read our other reviews of LFWM 2020.

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