16th January 2023

Gucci Menswear AW23 – Milan Fashion Week

Gucci Menswear takes Milan by Storm for AW23

The (almost) post-Alessandro Michele era kicked off the new year with a fantastic Gucci menswear AW23 collection at Milan Fashion Week.  There was even a concert feel to the show, with Jazz recording artists Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog taking centre stage in the round doing what all Jazz artists do best – improvising.

In fact, improvisation was the trait that underwrote the entire collection.  As the band delved into their musical explorations through the live and evolving soundtrack, the cast took to the catwalk that encircled them to showcase just what free-flowing thought and expression can achieve in the hands of exceptional designers.  Jeans incorporating eye-catching full silk scarf panelling, plain tees with vertigo-inducing v-necklines, and a clear theme of oversized structure and tailoring were there for all to see.  This was a new and innovative interpretation of a typical male wardrobe.

The palette slipped from Paisley Park purple, lemon yellow and electric blue, interspersed with grey, black and even the occasional hit of shining silver.  Oversized silhouettes were everywhere – trousers, blouson flight jackets and floor-sweeping tailored coats.  Trousers were pushed even further and resembled long, genderless wrap skirts with death-defying splits that added something intriguing and compelling to an already familiar conversation.

Leg warmers combined with leather ankle booties recalled the heady eighties-style aesthetics of yesteryear while breathing new narratives into the looks of today.  The slouchy black leather workwear jumpsuit embossed with the classic GG monogram was a beauty.  The Gucci double-breasted suit broke new ground with buttoned cut-off sleeves and legs offering the option of wearing it as a safari silhouette.  Patent leather trousers in pea green and black added a certain rock star sheen, while the glitter jeans that closed the show reflected the light like a disco ball.

Along with the famous monogram, the iconic Jackie bag made an encore sporting Tom Ford’s Piston Lock and other foundational emblems like the Horsebit and the Cross added just the right kind of punctuation.  AW23 heralds both a new sensibility for Gucci and a recognition of the genius that brought us all to this point.  We can only wonder what will come next.


To read our last feature on Gucci, click here

Click here for more info on Gucci menswear AW23.

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