Gucci Men’s SS24 – Milan Fashion Week
Gucci's latest collection takes its inspiration from one of its classic emblems. By THE FALL
For Gucci men’s SS24 at Milan Fashion Week we were all invited to the Gucci Horsebeat Society, a three-day event at the Spazio Maiocchi featuring commissions by ten artists to celebrate 70 years of the Italian House’s famed Horsebit Loafer. To reflect the three-dimensional nature of the exhibition, the new collection indulged in in Gucci’s iconography and exaggerated them to oversized proportions for contemporary takes on old classics.
Perfect examples of this theme were seen in the sharp lines of the double-breasted Prince of Wales suits, with bootcut trousers extending the silhouette for the eye to enjoy. A closer look at the check revealed Horsebit motifs connecting the squares. More overt examples formed part of the bold repeated graphic prints on bowling shirts and shorts.
Overlong manipulations of familiar forms added dimension and subtext to many of the looks on show. Extended tailored jackets were worn over long untucked shirts and pinstripe bootcut trousers, while generous double-breasted wool blazers did the same for the denim jeans. Colours ranged from greys, neutrals and browns, with swatches of cool blue for the summer’s shade. Not to be left out, the iconic GG motif interweaved its way into suits, double denims and, of course, the luxury bags.
But it was the irreverent detailing – like the horse and Horsebit pull tag to the zip on the shoulder of the oversized knitted sweater and the Gucci longboard skateboard – that added the lyrical flourishes we’ve come to expect from the brand. In other moments, brilliant metallic silver fabrics for hooded jackets and long shorts gave a sense of urban modernity, while the sequinned shirt, trousers and shoes look added a touch of the outrageous.
And, of course, what would the celebration be without the latest adaptation of the classic Horsebit loafer, this time updated with a bolder, chunky rubber sole. Literally and metaphorically, the new loafers were the ideal sign off for a Gucci collection destined to be an inspiration for future celebrations to come.
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