Giorgio Armani Womenswear AW23 – Milan Fashion Week
Sorcha Ní Cheallaigh looks back at the Italian master's new collection from MFW
Milan Fashion Week would not have been complete without the new Giorgio Armani womenswear AW23 collection. From an empty theatre in 2020 to last year’s silent runway in solidarity with Ukraine, Armani has always approached Fashion Week with innovation and artistic nuance.
Cipria, the title of the new proposition, offered an artistic continuation of the gentle manifesto seen throughout Armani’s flowing silhouettes last season. Presented in the favoured small theatre on Via Borgonuovo, Mr. Armani’s winter sensibilities pushed further into the warm, soft and tender.
Despite the cold just outside the door and the marble surrounds, the space was transformed into an intimate drawing room with a colour palette inspired by the beauty products that caress our skin. “Maquillage is always an intimate, personal moment,” said Mr. Armani, “just like the atmosphere that pervades this collection”.
Earth, bronze, and powder featured heavily in nods to the collection’s namesake. On the catwalk, the colours offered a sophisticated and decidedly forgiving visual to the postmodern fashion landscape. Touches of mandarin and baby pinks and pearlescent fabrics evoked the familiar subtlety of blush. Sheer skin-toned fabrics suggested the loose covering of translucent setting powder. In contrast, black kajal covered over half of the looks – a shade known worldwide through the cultural permanence of Kohl eyeliner pencils.
Everything followed the body’s movements. Styles were minimalist and form focused. Reminiscent of the fluent, sensual lines of the Roaring Twenties, silky straight dresses and blazer co-ords spoke of lavish comfort. The decadence of silk pyjamas were reimagined for day and eveningwear, while enveloping shawls were reinvigorated and deconstructed-cum-reconstructed collars added a sense of utilitarianism to the playful affluence.
Unexpected accents come in the form of berets and beaded fringing. A stylised flower motif was best utilised when repeated in white across sumptuous black velvet coats. A “synthesis of grace, delicacy, and discretion” it was called – an unapologetically traditional approach to femininity.
On a cold Sunday in Milan, Cipria presented the perfect mix of warmth, style and luxury. The Giorgio Armani AW23 woman revels in a refined timeless femininity described by sartorial excellence – the hallmarks of both Mr. Armani and Milan itself.
To read our review of the Moschino show from MFW, click here
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