Fendi SS24 – Milan Fashion Week
Kim Jones takes inspiration from the epicentre of it all, Rome, for MFW. By THE FALL
The FENDI SS24 show at Milan Fashion Week brought us a collection brimming with intriguing asymmetric lines, unusual cutout detailing and bold ‘off-kilter’ colour blocking. Artistic director Kim Jones used the occasion to unshackle his distinct creativity over here while at the same time holding back on the reins over there to present a contemporary push and pull on the classic Roman style and sophistication the House is known for.
“When I’m in Rome,” said the designer, “every day I walk from the hotel to the Colosseum wearing my earpods. It’s like listening to a soundtrack to an imaginary film with FENDI characters I see along the way.” For his new proposition, those imaginary characters were brought to life on the catwalk in gloriously tailored technicolour.
That tailoring came with masculine edges to define sharp silhouettes and boundless dualities for Jones’ new summer muse – simple but gorgeous buttonless three-quarter car coats made for easy styling, as did the crisp white overlong work shirts worn over clean trousers tapered to the ankles. Structured jackets and blazers likewise went sans boutons, and sometimes also went sleeveless to expose silken bare arms.
Washed silk evening dresses and calf-length, stretch-knit bodycon versions with polo necks and dramatic cutouts at the shoulder gently swung the aesthetics pendulum back to more feminine perspectives. Swathes of muted blues, deep tans, acid yellows and bold oranges were broken up with wide panels in contrasting shades wrapped around the midriff and extended away from the body like sashes.
All along the length of the catwalk spectacular giant sculptures of Fendi bags literally ‘grew’ out of the floor. Fortunately for us, Silvia Fendi’s actual bags for the season came in more manageable sizes – Peekaboo, Baguette, Origami and First bags indulged in a little opulent luxury while the new Flip shopper perfectly reflected the sense of understated playfulness underwriting the entirety of Jones’ collection.
In conjunction with the jewellery from Defina Delettrez Fendi, all elements of FENDI SS24 slotted together like a cipher to reveal a flawless story of fashion design. “It’s not about the spectacle of being looked at,” continued Jones about his collection, “but the reality of wearing, and the confidence and chicness that comes with it. It’s not about being something but being someone.” Amen.
To read our review of the FENDI AW23 show from MFW, click here
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