Gucci AW23 – Milan Fashion Week
Jodi Bhachu-Smith looks back at the new collection at MFW
The parting of a creative director from a fashion house can be challenging in today’s age, as the role can bestow world recognition and industry respect on the many who have held it. This was particularly true for Alessandro Michele, whose style became intimately entwined with Gucci’s DNA over his 20-year tenure in the chair.
However, after Michele’s departure in November last year, the House announced designer Sabato De Sarno – formerly of Valentino – would take the helm from the SS24 collection going forward. This meant it was the famed in-house Design Studio that was tasked with the creation of the Gucci AW23 proposition for this coming winter.
The show at Milan Fashion Week came to life in the Gucci Hub, the heart of the House, utilising its ground-breaking Demetra luxury material in chartreuse tones. Each model emerged from the building’s lifts, symbolising the creative process undertaken to eventually arrive to the catwalk.
Through the collection, we journeyed through the archives; from slinky sheer dresses, lingerie with metallic GG motifs and extravagant faux furs, to cutout detailing and casual oversized tailoring paired with sneakers. Accessories tied the collection together with relaxed new takes on the iconic Jackie bag and the classic Gucci loafer with an updated rubber sole.
The colour palette bounced with electricity across dresses, coats and oversized knitwear. And, the result was a vibrant, eclectic and uplifting exploration of the House’s heritage, but honed with the sharp contemporary edge of a modern lens. Members of the Design Team have been with the company for over two decades, and that wealth of knowledge seamlessly integrated the eroticism of Tom Ford’s 90s and early 2000s vision with the playful and exuberance Michele was known for.
Like a conversation pit, the show space was divided by two large circular indents, and with Gucci AW23, that dialogue continued in style in the familiar yet always compelling story of Gucci.
To read our review of the Moschino show from MFW, click here
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