25th June 2019

Dior Homme 2020 review

In Kim Jones we trust. Dior’s poise-centric menswear collection speaks to true grandeur. By Chidozie Obasi

“Sumptuous” clearly defines the Dior Homme direction under new creative director Kim Jones.  Portraying an unfading sense of luxury in the label’s S/S 2020 men’s collection, the ensembles play with an exquisite mix of delicacy, anchored by subtle branding and thoughtfully-tailored garments.  Analogous to the S/S 2019 offering, this season’s range was characterised by clean lines and a timeless chromatic adaptation, highlighted by ever so covetable accessories like the Matthew M. Williams produced hardware and the products inspired by artist Daniel Arsham’s Future Relic series that lent itself to much of the collection’s parched, earthy tonal palette.

Eclectic, enticing and beguilingly-created would perhaps best describe the tailoring techniques utilised by Jones this season: lengthened belts, box-like shirts and oblique undershirts featured in the collection, underscoring the suiting’s slickness with youthful magnetism.  And there were lots of suits too, including jackets that wrapped and buttoned off-centre, mimicking a ’60s-staple Dior Homme tailored archetype.

Elsewhere safari caps and wide scarves sheltered the wearer from the imaginary sun, while skinny-fitted knitwear and short-sleeved shirts interceded in primary tones.  Floral motifs, leather jackets and drape panelling rejuvenated the noted lavishness of Dior’s unparalleled expertise.  Jumpsuits and silk shirts were presented in sophisticated fabrics that added seamlessly to the overall theme, and the collection reached a crescendo with the wave of unfettered trench coats and pale trousers – a clear nod to the artists’ uniforms.

Collaborative efforts were also present during the collection, with the likes of the newly-released B23 sneakers on display and the debut of the RIMOWA bags, announcing the first collaboration between Dior and the luxury luggage maker.  Jones also threw in delightful morsels for the Gen-Z consumer, like the saddlebags paired up with astounding formal utility.  For many, this was the collection that showed us that Jones has learned and absorbed so many pivotal lessons from his time as men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton.  Undoubtedly, one of the fundamental lessons he drew on was a profound understanding of balance – commercialisation with the right dosage of urbanised details (AKA street-style) mixed with the opulence that attracts the artisans (AKA couture).  His creative responses engages a bracket that not only relies on the latest “sick-logo-tee” drop, but is also capable of fully comprehending the label’s diligence when it comes to orchestrating a collection that will sit at the very top of the fashion tree.


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