Christopher Kane SS23 – London Fashion Week
Jamila Woodley reviews the new collection at LFW
The new Christopher Kane collection at London Fashion Week built on his fascination with science and nature and incorporated them into new theories on the human body for spring/summer 2023. Throughout the show two distinct themes became clear: the artistry of minimalism and the desirability of escapism. Artistic interpretations of human anatomy combined with the simplicity of Physician uniforms for a sense of liberation and excitement on the catwalk.
The story started with models sporting luxurious organza silk skirt suits with folded back hems trimmed with rose lace, and tantalisingly split to the thigh. Here we had the first subtle nod to the theme, with folds strategically fashioned to reference ‘layers of dissected skin.’
Tops that incorporated delicate, clear strap constructions and diminutive buckle detailing sculpted torsos and shaped ideas right onto the very skin. The cinched effect gave abdominal areas a type of presence and strength that became all too obvious once the eyes had settled on them. Sometimes it was the dresses with graphic prints of anatomically correct images as shoulder straps or main motifs that signposted the way.
As a way of decorating the fine edges of the collection, on other looks Kane’s love of flowers and their intrinsic beauty took centre stage. Cute nurse silhouettes and loose sheer knits featured all-over floral prints in baby pink, blood oranges and golden yellows, while the matching collarless jacket and skirt was an impressionist’s dream of green, black, yellow, purple and blue.
Of course, with the Queen’s sad passing, many designers found their own ways to mark the occasion and commemorate Britain’s longest serving monarch. For Kane, it was his reinterpretation of the once conservative twinset knits the young Queen Elizabeth was known to have worn around the grounds of Balmoral. Here, the look was subverted with a contemporary twist of silver trigger hooks that suspended the ‘twin’ off the shoulders.
Whether they were designs to pay respect, explore his inspirations or indulge his passions, the Christopher Kane SS23 collection triumphantly explored concepts of both the interior and exterior, and it did it without fear of pushing new boundaries. It delightfully presented the beauty within and the complexities without minus any drama, pretence or fanfare – an almost impossible feat to accomplish in today’s world.
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To read the ERDEM London Fashion Week review, click here