Balmain Pre-Fall 2022 – Men’s and Women’s

Reminiscing of his earliest years at Balmain and remembering moments with the late Ed Filipowski, creative director Olivier Rousteing dug deep into past memories to make new ones for the Pre-Fall 2022 collection, New French Style.  Often basing pieces around the House’s historical signature style, Rousteing focuses on fresh beginnings by pairing modern rock references with Parisian couture techniques.

In awe of his close relatives and friends’ adoption of Kurt Cobain’s rough style as a child, Rousteing also uses the opportunity to indulge in the music video aesthetic of the original MTV generation, back when it was known for actually showing music.  Often drawn to the Grunge outlook at a young age, he firmly believed in what it represented, with the spirit and sound being a huge part of not just his, but all of our lives.  Channelling his healing process into his designs and grunge appreciation, the collection’s cuts and embellishments include a number of patched, irregular and worn twists.

Celebrating looks from across nations, the collection also highlights the many different people who live the modern, rebellious lifestyle.  The New French Style includes a large variety of fabrics, colours and techniques.  From faux fur bags, leather trousers and velvet dresses, to plaid suits, denim skirts and oversized jackets.  Styled with boots, gloves and helmets from Fox Racing – the global leaders in motorcycle and mountain bike apparel, countless items are customised to fit the aura of the collection.

Adorned in traditional Balmain pearls, gold details and chains, the collection showcases techniques pioneered by Pierre Balmain’s very first couture presentations.  Adding neon colours with neutrals, it seeks to modernise the dark grunge look for a contemporary and more discerning audience.  Front to back items reflect Rousteing’s own view on ‘perfect imperfections,’ while a spectacular gold gown is improbably paired with blue biker gloves.  Elsewhere, pieces are patched and layered with net fabrics, while others appear completely worn and covered in handwritten graffiti.

Photographed in a futuristic setting, New French Style presents the models as though time travellers to the future, yet dressed in pieces from the vintage past.  Pulling together two distinctive styles, Rousteing’s ‘Kurt Cobain meets Marie Antoinette’ outlook on the collection underwrites the expectedly polished offering.

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