Alexander McQueen SS23 Men’s Collection
Laurelle Laryea doesn't just see things in black and white for McQueen's summer 2023
Sarah Burton looks to the evening sky for a cosmically-inspired SS23 menswear collection for Alexander McQueen. Aesthetically and literally, the new offering seeks to contrast darkness and light and form and design. A simple colour palette of midnight black and powder white runs through the looks, sometimes lit up by clusters of crystal embellishments.
Glowing shades of fuchsia, powder pink and dusty blue intermittently break up the stark monochrome to add new twists to the tale. Elsewhere, light cotton juxtaposed with leather and cable knits look ahead to the transitional periods between long days and mild nights. True to the House’s ethos, it’s a collection that is exquisitely tailored but experimental, and displaying a sharp edge.
The focus is on evening wear. Upturned lapels create a confident neckline while cinched waistlines challenge the status quo of masculine silhouettes. Classic double-breasted coats are embellished with crystal astral brooches and intricate hand embroidery.
Another look features a deep space black cape-sleeved coat adorned with a shooting star motif; it’s dazzling tail curving around the body. But it’s the cutouts on the suit jackets and cable knitwear, and the silver rings and chain link accessories, that hints at the rebellious streak that underpins the collection. Leather and ‘trompe l’oeil’ crystal harnesses call out to the “Supernature” – deconstructing and then reconstructing the normal codes of formal evening attire.
Classic two-piece and three-piece suits appear seamless and conserved at first glance. At a second glance they tell the story of a decidedly futuristic vision for the SS23 season. For next summer, Burton envisions Alexander McQueen’s man as a (space) traveller. The chunky Chelsea boots seen throughout are perfect for making ‘one giant leap’ on new terrain, and the graphic shapes on the pink and black and monochrome ensembles look as though they could have been sprayed on with moon dust. Next, in a nod to more streetwear aesthetics, we find wide-legged smooth leather trousers worn high with a wide belt, and paired with a graphic, painterly crew neck tee or a clean leather worker’s shirt.
Finally, preppy is also well represented. The crisp white shorts and oversized shirt teamed with the equally oversized cutout cardigan and white sneakers practically paints the picture of a summertime walk home from campus for you. All of which should tell you, no matter where Alexander McQueen takes you next summer, you’re going to look and feel perfect when you get there. Even in a rocket ship.
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