Adorn – Fashion Jewellery for SS2020
THE FALL takes a look at some of the best pieces from some of the best brands
Sometimes – most of the time – an outfit will not ‘come together’ unless it is finished off by the right accessories. Shoes are essential, for obvious reasons. Bags, purses and hats add to a look but they’re not permanent fixtures to your body throughout the day so you still have to make sure what you’re wearing will work without them. Jewellery is a different matter. Not only are they a physical expression of a deeper and more personal individual style, jewellery pieces usually have to span a number of different outfits while still being the lynchpin that holds everything together throughout the day, no matter what. If the clothes are the icing the jewellery is the decoration, and cakes are always more appealing to the senses with a little decoration – even to the cake itself.
Naturally, this isn’t a dynamic that’s been lost on the world’s leading fashion brands either. From the make-up on your face to the polish on your toenails – and everything in-between – everything can come from just one famous name if you want it to. But, with the right piece, it might be the jewellery that you’re wearing that will catch the corners of eyes and draw the most initial attention. And, as they say, first impressions count. So we wanted to look at the fashion jewellery from some of the leaders in luxury fashion to make sure there are only good impressions made this summer.
There’s actually something very natural and organic to the aura of the McQueen jewellery pieces for the summer. Things don’t necessarily have a uniform symmetry to them and there’s a certain ‘wildness’ to the materials used and the designs created. The double-wire, antique gold bangles and necklaces for example are hand-made with a passion and abandon represented in the tortured twists and turns that make the pieces look so unique. The multi-layered, rope-chain necklace eschews bling for more earthy tones unusual to jewellery, with the incorporation of bell pendants, nautical rope effects and an almost rust effect in some layers making it feel like a discovery of sunken pirate treasure.
Most of the collection is presented with this unusual ‘vintage’ and very romantic aesthetic, making it one of the more unique jewellery collections from any of the fashion houses this summer.
Believe it or not, Giorgio Armani’s jewellery collection was only launched for the first time at the end of 2019. It does seem odd that a company that has made its name making women look beautiful on and off screen for decades already has only just now decided to diversify into jewellery, but at least there’s something to be said for making up for lost time. Armani’s collection revolves around three themes: Borgonuovo features pieces that interpret the familiar lines of the logo in pavé diamonds or semi-precious stones. Si pieces have been inspired by Armani’s female olfactory symbol and have a starker, more contemporary design quotient – like the black onyx used in some pieces such as the wide wrist bangle.
One look at the diamonds and white gold of the Firmamento portion of the collection and you’ll immediately recognise the inspiration of the stars in the night sky. This is spectacular evening wear jewellery fitting for the red carpets Giorgio Armani has always been synonymous with.
Riccardo Tisci’s evolution of the house of Burberry we remarked on here extends right down to the smallest piece in this summer’s jewellery collection. The re-introduced ‘TB’ symbol that celebrates the founder of the brand, Thomas Burberry, is seen in a number of new designs for clothes and accessories, and also features prominently as the centrepiece in a number of circular earring designs in gold and silver. The safety pin charm necklace is the perfect embellishment to an outfit with an open-necked shirt or a dress with a deep v-neck.
Standing out in the collection are the gold hoop earrings with a drop featuring of a single hand grasping a polished pearl. We’re predicting slightly more unusual design features like this to be a big hit this summer.
Chanel are never one to do things by half and their summer collection of jewellery pieces shows just as much intricacy, opulence and design cues as those shown in the weaves and patterns of their clothes. If it’s Chanel it has to make a bold statement and this is especially true of their luxurious costume jewellery. Gold, diamonds and pearls form the template materials used in most of the designs but it’s the designs themselves that take your breath away. Of course, the famous interlocking Cs are at the heart of everything. It’s this kind of overall craftsmanship you’d expect from the world’s leading fashion house but it’s also what makes it so hard to objectively choose one piece above another.
That being said, the black, silver and diamond wrist piece perhaps takes it in a photo finish due to its extraordinarily gothic style, a description not normally associated with Chanel but all the more exciting because of it.
The summer jewellery collection from Dior tends to lean a little more towards the contemporary design end of the spectrum. There’s a simplicity to the pieces and a pleasing mix of materials used that shows a quiet confidence in being a little more understated. The dominant material in most of the pieces is gold, even if most of it isn’t gold. For example, the simple pearl and beaded chokers are held together at its centre by an epic gold flower burst that neatly sits where the clavicles meet. The rings also pick up on this foliage design aesthetic by mimicking leaves on a vine organically growing along your fingers. The bar earrings with the asymmetrically sized studs at each end are also little gems to be discovered this summer (forgive the pun).
Gucci’s summer range has a somewhat eclectic feel to it, ranging from pieces suitable for a fairytale princess to others more suitable for a punk rocker in a girl band. The diamond encrusted head dress is a statement piece that feels made for the glitzy event or red carpet. It would literally be the crowning glory to your outfit. Not too far behind in the wow stakes are the two-tiered chokers fashioned from aged silver or gold and featuring a row of regal lion heads along the bottom tier. Then we have the modernity of the gold spear earrings that look like they have been ‘stabbed’ through the lobe. While they do have an air of ‘The Sex Pistols’ about them they’re softened up slightly by the famous ‘double G’ symbol sitting nicely on the lobe.
And for something a little different and (quite possibly) practical, if you’re one of those that has a problem finding your glasses after putting them down somewhere why not secure them with a chain of giant black plastic links? Not necessarily jewellery in the strictest sense but no-one’s going to call the police on you about it.
Prada is another one on our list that has taken inspiration from nature for their jewellery collection. This time the focal points are sea shells. Necklaces with multiple loops 0f individual seas shells in pearl and silver sets the tone from the get-go. There’s also the single loop necklace featuring much larger sea shells with matching earrings to double down on the theme. For something a little more left-field there are also the super-cute ‘knitted crab’ earrings that are guaranteed to start a conversation with someone somewhere (there are also knitted bird earrings too if sea life isn’t really your bag).
Warm tones and natural materials are a big part of Saint Laurent’s collection this year. Clearly the desert palette of the RTW SS2020 campaign has had a huge influence on the creative direction for the pieces, with wood, plats and weaves adding to the slightly bohemian undertone of everything presented.
Chunky bangles and earrings are the main pieces here, with natural wood combining with gold, black, silver and animal skin designs. The stand-out piece has to be the gold, three-tiered drop earrings encrusted blood red gemstones. Up close it’s a beautifully intricate piece that will catch eyes from (not quite) miles around.
When it comes to the McCartney range of jewellery pieces there’s a certain comfort in knowing that they will all have – arguably – the highest sustainability quotient of any collection on the market. As standard. It means buyers can just focus on what they like and not feel guilty for it. In this case it means pieces that were made from traceable, sustainable wood and other materials.
Aesthetically, McCartney jewellery is definitely out there to make a bold statement, particularly in terms of earrings. There are no small, delicate little lobe studs here. These are large drop earrings that are meant to be part of the outfit, not accessories to it. Nowhere is this clearer than with the oversized crocheted earrings that are long enough to reach the chest. Coupled with the large, tiered wooden drop earrings there’s almost a near-imperceptible Native American vibe to the collection.
As you would expect from the punk queen of British fashion, the Westwood jewellery collection comes infused with a lot of humour and design cues reflective of the grand dame herself. The iconic Westwood orb becomes a pair of earrings that resembles ever watchful eyes – so don’t buy a t-shirt you’ll throw away next month because Westwood will know. The gold chain with the cherry pendant will give a whole new meaning to a very familiar term should it ever by lost.
But it’s perhaps the Caterpillar necklace and matching bangle that takes centre stage in the collection. Row upon row of pink, red, burgundy and purple gemstones held on place by individual gold cages tells you these pieces in particular are no joke.