Saint Laurent SS24 – Paris Fashion Week
The House of Yves reinterprets male aesthetics for the summer. By Mya Bunger
With the Eiffel Tower once again looming over the entire production, the Saint Laurent SS24 collection at Paris Fashion Week cut through the noise and returned to a sense of simplicity as Anthony Vaccarello turned the page on a new chapter at the Parisian Maison. The Belgian designer favoured chic elegance over the maximalist aesthetics popularised by many other Houses throughout the past year; going against the grain to define quiet luxury through the prism of Saint Laurent’s decades-old legacy.
Never a stranger to infiltrating traditionally male domains, Vaccarello’s inspiration came via pioneering female pilots like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bollard, and fed through to the utilitarianism of the earthy-toned jumpsuits, jackets, and mid-length pencil skirts. Large square pockets and gold button detailing served to underline the collection’s focus on contemporary refinement and pragmatism.
Venturing further into the theme, safari jackets first introduced by Yves Saint Laurent himself in the 60s were brought up-to-date and augmented with structure and volume for looser silhouettes. Cinched waists – mostly belted, but occasionally elasticated with cascades of pleats – acted as the metaphorical line between masculine and feminine. Just as the first female pioneers refused male dominance, so does Saint Laurent, by continually redefining glamorous femininity through typically male forms.
Figure-hugging elements were seen in the audaciously sheer tops that unapologetically clung to the body, paired with pocketed cargo trousers in deep browns and plums. Accessories were bold but not overpowering, as models were ready for take-off in aviator balaclavas and long leather gloves decorated with statement chunky bangles.
Saint Laurent SS24 was a departure from the pomp and ceremony we saw on the catwalk last show season. The narrative leant away from tailoring and opulence, and reinforced Vaccarello’s desire to agitate the mainstream and create a new paradigm for the Maison.
For what could have been a challenge in another designer’s hands, Vaccarello instead skilfully delivered a timeless embrace of sophistication, artistry and heritage. Each look defined the Saint Laurent woman as strong, powerful, singularly accomplished and effortlessly chic.
To read our review of the Saint Laurent AW23 show from PFW, click here
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