26th September 2022

Moschino SS23 – Milan Fashion Week

Martina Isolde Cerruti reviews the new collection from Jeremy Scott at MFW

Who said that talking about society’s issues needs to be boring and serious?  Through his Moschino SS23 collection for Milan Fashion Week, Jeremy Scott proved how vital it is for fashion to remain anchored to the present, and how powerful a tool it is in expressing opinions of significance without any loss of glamour or optimism.

Undeniably, one of the topics at the top of most minds are looming the economic forecasts.  “Everyone’s talking about inflation,” said the designer.  “The cost of everything is going up: housing, food, life.  So, I took inflation into the collection.”  And he did.  In the literal sense.

Water floaties and inflated details and accessories filled the Palazzo del Ghiaccio in a colourful and camp invitation to have fun at the Moschino’s new pool party.  Scott’s injection of enthusiasm started with a series of daytime looks adorned with the faux-inflated iconic heart symbol synonymous with the brand.

Dovetailing with the subtext to the theme, we spot an almost identical copy of Franco Moschino’s life jacket from the 1989 Cruise Me Baby collection – of course featuring the ‘pull to inflate’ cord detailing.  At Moschino, as well as in life, nothing escapes inflation.  Puffed-out stiletto heels and M-O earrings accompanied blown-up versions of the iconic leather jacket bag for a compelling and conceptual pop vision from Scott.

Later in the collection, it was the pool toys themselves that were stealing the show by redefining the silhouettes.  In joyful wit and exuberance, inflatable dolphins transformed into sleeves while blow-up flamingos and turtles wrapped around models’ bodies or crowned their heads.  And in the final show-stopping look of the night, two swans framed a floor-length, ice-white gown encrusted with sparkling crystals.

At its heart, the collection will come to us with the humour and the creative flair Jeremy Scott has always been known for.  And, who knows, with the strong headwinds that seem to be coming, maybe Moschino SS23 will help us all stay afloat.


For more information on Moschino SS23, click here

Click here to read the Prada Milan Fashion Week review

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