Molly Goddard SS23 – London Fashion Week
Abigail Marlow reviews the new collection from LFW
For her SS23 show, designer Molly Goddard returned to the airy Seymour Leisure Centre in London to treat us to another masterclass in feel-good dressing. Harking back to the joyous audacity of old-school red carpets of the pre-internet era, Goddard’s collection sought to press pause on our repetitive reality and offer a colourful new escape for us all. The immersive presentation revelled in the imperfect and delighted in the exploration of shape and construction.
The show opened and closed with contrasting creations in white, as if to illustrate Goddard’s cyclical creative process. And, from the outset, there was an undeniable emphasis on the silhouette – a consistent motif throughout – culminating in the extravagantly ruffled and oversized tiered bridal gown that was just as fanciful as it was fantastical.
Other experimental looks were created in the designer’s go-to tulle fabric and fashioned into voluminous skirts and striking dresses. Sheer fabrics were worn over bare skin and paired with contrasting candy-coloured knits, or layered atop busy patterned fabrics for a maximalist finish. The vivid palette of the interpretation on the cowboy boot worn with some looks hinted at the fun there to be had next summer. Elsewhere, further subtle nods to the Old West were found in the shape of patterned denim jeans, tiered maxi skirts and long silhouettes.
Interlaced with the womenswear, the menswear looks shared many of the same key features underpinning the whole collection: ruffles, layering, and clashing colours and prints are clearly going to be just as important for the men’s wardrobe – but, perhaps, minus the tulle. Lime green sweaters will be worn over frilly lilac shirts and classic men’s tailoring will have Goddard’s distinctive twists of ruffled detailing and more casual cuts.
Goddard notes that the designer Charles James was an inspiration for her collection. “He strove for perfection, which isn’t something I’m interested in,” she says of her thinking. “I’m more into the exploration of creating shapes on the body and changing proportions — that element inspired this season. Pushing fabrics to their extremes, utilising the qualities of each fabric and letting it do the work.” With this kind of dedication to creative evolution, it’s easy to see why the Molly Goddard brand is carving out an ever-larger piece of the contemporary fashion landscape.
For more information on Molly Goddard SS23, click here
Click here to read the Christopher Kane London Fashion Week show