Mark Fast AW23 – London Fashion Week
Michael Meir-White reviews the British designer's new collection at LFW
Just as surely as the Earth revolves around the Sun, February heralds the arrival of that great British institution, London Fashion Week. For four days, the eyes of the world descend on the capital in order to assess the very best our designers have to offer. One such creative was Mark Fast, whose innovative approach to knitwear has already garnered him notable admirers such as Naomi Campbell, Julia Restonin-Roitfeld and Beyoncé. For AW23, Fast took us on a hedonistic voyage of self-discovery, charting a course through the pulsating, neon-flecked world of the underground rave to unlock our inner joy.
To start, his story mined his continuing fascination with Y2K style. Cargo trousers, puffer jackets and acid wash denim featured prominently, adorned in crisp white and industrial black accents. When paired with arresting notes of pink, green and purple, they spoke to the decadent thrill of clandestine nightlife. Elsewhere, sensual hooded jumpsuits and dresses recalled the influential and era-defining music video for Kylie Minogue’s Can’t Get You Out Of My Head. Puffed and quilted sleeves were dissected and recontextualised as gloves and boot coverings to obscure the line between streetwear and high fashion.
Finally, Fast celebrated his own incomparable design codes that have established him as one of London’s most talked about creative minds. His signature spider-web knit can be traced back to his days as a student at the Central Saint Martins and was prevalent throughout. The motif took centre stage on daring mini-dresses and knee-length skirts. Partially exposed midriffs and thighs added a sharp provocative edge, and extended to men’s cropped tops with cutout detailing to offer a timely androgynous silhouette to the collection.
Fast’s AW23 invited us to work hard but play harder; to leave the office behind for the liberation of the dancefloor. Taking its cues from the dawn of the 21st century and repurposing them for a distinctly contemporary audience, this was a collection that will continue to solidify the designer’s status as a rising star.
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