Maison Margiela Icons Collection
Maison Margiela brings its history to the forefront by reimagining it for the future. By Sorcha Ní Cheallaigh
“Sometimes it is through the hidden underside,” writes poet Ken Chan, “that we find ourselves most bare”. For the newest Maison Margiela addition, the Icon Collection provides another feast for the eyes; a compilation of garments and accessories building on the house’s existing 4 and 14 lines with elevated wardrobes for women and men reimagined for a more enduring form. “Icons,” writes the House, “are genderless proposals initially developed in the haute couture ateliers of the Artisanal Collection, industrialised for prêt-à-porter in the Co-Ed Collection, and selected, perfected and finally anchored in the Icons Collection”.
With such an intensely curated offering, John Galliano’s influence is evident. Silhouettes and techniques entrenched in the genetics of Maison Margiela recapitulate as postmodern stitching, caped sleeve cuts and bespoke tailoring converge on the body. Galliano’s joie de vivre radiates in moments of whimsical splicing and heritage Tabi split-toe boots. Even in moments of assured selection however, the ever-shifting nature of fashion finds ways to evolve the permanent. The collection’s permanent position in Maison Margiela stores is an earned privilege, as key pieces will be seasonally re-evaluated and refined, with new proposals always evolving to eventually reach Icon status.
The accompanying film approaches everlasting moments with a similarly wry smile. Directed by internationally renowned auteur Olivier Dahan, looks of longing repeated in chiaroscuro followed by vibrant saturation lead to bodies held under a single trench coat. Love, it seems, is irresistible; forever evading our ever-reaching grasp. Even the scent of it lingers and we watch how it remains on the skin of stars Thomas Riguelle and Lulu Tenney. Their visceral dance set to the mournful yet passionate scores of Chopin and Beethoven beguiles viewers. They breathe in their surroundings, finding the body of another to wrap and unwrap; attempting to pause the present to relish only for the moment to pass.
For Maison Margiela, these lasting impressions of devotion and care represent “the bonds of loyalty between a fashion house and its clientele”. House patrons that may have felt physically isolated from their fashion community over the past two years, will be treated to a series of ephemeral installations devoted to the new line within existing stores in Paris Avenue Montaigne, London Bruton Street, Tokyo and the Shanghai Réel flagship.
Galliano’s multi-faceted Icon vision offers a thank you to the community that has supported the house over the last three decades.
For more information on the Maison Margiela Icons Collection, click here