Louis Vuitton SS24 – Paris Fashion Week
The French Maison sees journeys ahead for next summer. By THE FALL
Hot air balloons are not the sort of things you would normally associate with a fashion show. But for Nicolas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton SS24 collection at Paris Fashion Week, it turned out to be the perfect theme for a journey that took us on new, Jules Verne-like adventures. Inside a balloon-like structure on the Champs-Élyséees designed by frequent collaborator James Chinlund, we saw an impressive amalgam of fabrics and styles from Ghesquière that in themselves suggested exhilarating expeditions to be had.
Sporty leathers jackets with (of course) big parachute sleeves in contrast tones were themselves a contrast to the flyaway tiered chiffon skirts they were paired with. This softness of touch also came with the delicate puffed blouses dotted throughout, and the shimmering calf-length dresses at the denouement. But, never one to let an opportunity for juxtaposition go a-begging, the designer’s use of angular shapes elsewhere in the story hardened the silhouette.
In this sense, shoulders sharp enough to pop a balloon or broad enough to balance a wine glass for wraparound blouses and tailored jackets and coats made for nice little exclamation points along our journey. And, if the oversized double-breasted jackets in black or yellow, satin or leather, felt like the glamorous traveller, then the silky pyjama jackets and pants in faded candy-coloured striping are what would be in her suitcase.
The theme of the occasion was indulged even more overtly with exaggerated balloon-like plaid tops, ruffled sleeves that fall like deflated parachutes, and striped high-waisted trousers held in place by thin black braces. But, again, we had the sculpted black leather corsets and the crisscrossed wide leather hipster belts to swing the pendulum back onto contemporary aesthetics once more.
Underneath it all, Louis Vuitton SS24 presented a sense of opportunity for next summer, irrespective of who you are and from whatever generation. Now celebrating ten years in the chair at the famous Maison, it’s what Nicolas Ghesquière has always done best.
To read our review of the Louis Vuitton AW23 show from PFW, click here
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