LFW – Fyodor Golan S/S2020: Pantastic
The duo behind Fyodor Golan reference Milos Forman's classic film Amadeus amongst other influences for their new summer collection
London has always been the place where different parts of the world come together to create things that are new and unique. Nowhere is this more apparent than at Fyodor Golan where the heritages of Latvia, Belgium and Israel combined once again for London Fashion Week to produce one of the most eye-catching shows of the week. ‘Goth meets glam meets Punk meets Prince’ would be one of the many interpretations that could be applied to the innovative collection. Vibrant colours were everywhere – from the spiked mohicans all the way down to the chunky platform sandals. This was fashion made to announce your arrival.
The designers took their inspirations from influences as varied as Marie Antoinette and Mozart to the modern day “romantic violent sensibilities of Grimes.” They took those influences and distilled them down to a thought-provoking, psychedelic collection that explored the concepts of individual expression through pansexuality. As Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman explained:
“We explored the idea of Pansexuality- the attraction towards a person regardless of their gender identity. This served as a battle against uniformity and underlined the expression of individuality of each model in the show. The Bedroom was an integral inspiration this season. Blankets and pillows are harnessed and turned into hybrid accessories justifying sexual tensions.” – Fyodor Golan.
There were shirts that were not just oversized, they were gigantic with sleeves that required individual choices to be made – bunch them up to create a different silhouette or let them hang and skim the floor as you walk. There were easy wearing pyjama suits that haphazardly combined pastel colours reminiscent of a Monet painting. There were aggressive deconstructed denim combinations of shirts, bras and hot pants teamed with shocking pink and navy blue tights. There were electric pink, fully studded satin shirt and trouser combos with trousers legs slit all the way up to the knee.
Some of the silhouettes even defied accurate description, like the rectangular pure white dress with pleated panelling (we think).
Overall this was a deliberate and calculated assault on the senses, made to make sure you sat up and took notice. One of the design skills that Fyodor Golan have perfected over the years is to make sure the shock and awe of it all is a means to an end and not the end in itself. The collection is significant in that upcycling is now a firm part of the production process as they move towards a zero-waste model. And even the accessories represented the dualities of purpose and gender norms. It all means everyone will be able to tell who’s wearing Fyodor Golan next summer.
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