Issey Miyake Homme Plissé Menswear 2020 Review

Issey Miyake took the summer season to heart with their Homme Plissé 2020 menswear collection and staged their show in the square of the Place des Vosges in Paris.  The relaxed atmosphere was added to by an accompanying live band and dancers that made the whole event feel communal, happy and ‘smiley’.  The perfect mindset for what was to come.

Following that lead, the event resembled more of a ‘performance’ than a rigid collection show and the pieces on display matched the ambience to a tee.  Colour blocking became a dominant recurring theme of the show with the designer’s signature pleated style presented in various stand out solid colours like bright pink, electric blue, cherry red and canary yellow.   Ease of wear for modern living became the clear message as loose fitting hooded jackets, casual pants, oversized cardigans and matching shirt and shorts ensembles passed before grateful eyes.

As the show progressed the casual ensembles gave way to more formal lines that still retained the unique and sought after Issey Miyake ‘simple is best’ aesthetic.  Kaftan style shirts teamed with voluminous culotte style pants, and easy pleated Nehru suits made with long and short jackets hinted at the warm Arabian nights to come.  Pleated jackets with asymmetric hems and giant capes with stark graphic prints in look-at-me colours looked alive on models given the freedom to express themselves  to the music from the accompanying band.  The adjust-your-eyes checks came in monochrome as well as multi-colours for tops and trousers to tap into the colour mixing trend of this season’s men’s catwalks.

The stand out of the collection surely had to have been the giant oversized bright green pleated overcoat that resembled a superhero’s cape when it moved with the model.  Coupled with ankle length pleated trousers in the same hue and a soft green pleated top, it was the look, among many, that demanded real attention and will be a must have next summer for the fiercely fashion forward out there who live for that attention.  High fashion will probably never look this god and feel this comfortable.

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