Givenchy SS24 – Paris Fashion Week
A new collection with a 'real wardrobe mentality' from the French Maison at PFW. By THE FALL
In an expansive monochrome tent set in the grounds of the L’Ecole Militaire, Matthew M. Williams staged his masterclass on technique and elegance for Givenchy SS24 at Paris Fashion Week. While AW23 may have tended towards glamour for the designer, this season was all about the simplicity of the lines, the ease of the fit and the textures of the fabrics.
The humble flower was used as a favoured motif throughout the new collection. The mind of past-master Hubert de Givenchy always returned to the idea of flowers in his day, and here Williams channelled those concepts across a range of modern aesthetic ideas. Button-less, oversized coats were defined by curved lines that sculpted them like tulip bulbs. Bright flower graphics appeared hand-painted on leather pencil skirts with angular asymmetric hems, and screen-printed onto long chiffon gowns.
In fact, barely-there, delicate sheer fabrics wrapped many of our cast in beautifully romantic embraces. Dresses, skirts, blouses with vertigo-inducing V-necklines and even little ankle socks all tantalisingly exposed the skin beneath to the light. It made the exchange with more masculine tailoring ideals – boxy, architectural shoulders, supersized volumes and large lapels; peaked and notched – all the more intriguing to observe.
SS24’s palette came understated – black, greys, neutrals, with pops of dusty oranges and yellows, lime greens and iridescent electric blues punctuating the line-up. Naturally, black dominated over the couture-inspired lines of the formalwear. Rosette cocktail dresses and regal satin gowns swirled into rose formations made the desired impact, and were nicely offset by the theories on the tuxedo form – in black and off-white, dress and skirt suit.
In its totality, Givenchy SS24 set out and achieved its ambitions of understated elegance and contemporary grace. Williams’ interpolations from the flower gardens combined with his unique fashion sensibilities mean that, for most of us next summer, everything should be coming up roses.
To read our review of the Givenchy AW23 show from PFW, click here
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