24th June 2023

Givenchy Men’s SS24 – Paris fashion Week

Matthew M. Williams delivers his new men's collection to PFW. By THE FALL

‘Individuality and non-conformity’ were the watchwords for the new Givenchy Men’s SS24 collection at Paris Fashion Week.  American-born artistic director Matthew M. Williams’ latest theories on masculine dressing encompassed long, generous proportions with contemporary twists, new interpretations of familiar aesthetics and layering juxtaposed with hacked-off long shorts to match all the moods of summer.

Oversized single and double-breasted suits and supersized tailored coats kicked of the show to set makers down for how the designer intended to modernise ‘smart’ archetypes in this new proposition.  The suit trousers were fitted wide and long for a style that carried through to the cargo pants and chinos that made welcome cameo appearances later on.

The gleeful redefinitions continued into the adaptations of our childhoods shown in the school uniform styling.  Light grey hooded and collared jackets, monogrammed pullover bombers and calfskin leather tech outwear were worn over simple shirts, black ties and tonal knitwear.  All that was needed to complete the journey back in time was the loose change in the pockets of the accompanying black trousers for the video game arcade after school.

As a visual counterpoint to the looks to be grown into, crested knits, sweatshirts and shrunken polos cropped at the hip played with notions of ‘outgrown’ proportions to further link us back to early years nostalgia.  To situate us back in present day, leather and denim waistcoats paired with edgy bootcut jeans and slick V-neck sleeveless jumpsuits in black and neutral added cool contemporary to the story.

By the time we reached the stand-out elongated tuxedo suits in lurex or brushed wool, we were already sold on Williams’ vision for next summer.  The classic men’s wardrobe had been carefully threaded through his own creative prism for a collection that felt cultural and relevant, without obscuring the foundations that makes Givenchy one of fashion’s most enduring names.

 

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