31st January 2023

Giorgio Armani Privé SS23 Show

Jodi Bhachu-Smith looks back at Giorgio Armani's spectacular new collection

Mr. Armani is no stranger to the theatrics of fashion.  In fact, you could state with little argument that after 18 years he’s now one of the toasts of the Paris couture scene.  With his new offering, Rondò Armaniano, Giorgio Armani Privé SS23 presented a modernist and glittering interpretation of the Harlequin.  Taken from that aesthetic, recurring diamond motifs permeated everything, from the clothes on the models to the show space’s walls and floor.

The mesmerising geometry of the Harlequin costume accompanied by refined ruffled collars underwrote the story of the collection.  Through necklines, button detailing, head pieces, and even in the inverse spaces created by cut-outs, the countless variations Mr Armani wove into his narrative stood as a testament to his vision as a couturier.

The use of refracted light borrowed from the Rococo tradition of Venetian palazzos and perfectly complemented the chosen colour palette.  Rather than bold and brazen reds and yellows, the hues drifted between muted blues, greens and purples. Naturally, this wasn’t a choice without reason.  It subtly reflected the nuances and complexities of the Harlequin’s disposition – both mischievous and melancholic.  As Armani himself said, “It is Harlequin seen through the patina of memory”.

The Roaring 20s and the jazz age flirted with one subtext to the story, while the 80s power suit touched on another.  It told of a skilful and fluid ability to embody diverse influences within a satisfying and coherent creative structure.  The show and its story evolved to cater to different desires – to the dreamer for whom couture is but a playful fantasy, and to the pragmatist for whom couture is a seasonal reality.

Giorgio Armani Privé SS23 arrived steeped in the old age couture spirit seen through (literally) new prisms.  It’s a feat not easy to accomplish in today’s world of haute couture.  But with shimmering looks and sophisticated silhouettes destined for red carpets and banquets alike, Giorgio Armani made the reality look easy.


To read our review on the Chanel Haute Couture SS23 show, click here

Click here for more information on Giorgio Armani Privé Haute Couture SS23

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