Utilitarianism – Erika Cavallini Pre-Fall 2020
Laura Palmieri's pre-fall 2020 collection for Erika Cavallini give us a new twist on familiar themes
With Erika Cavallini’s fall/winter collection bringing a modern re-interpretation of classicism to our fashionable streets this winter, this pre-fall collection will set the stage with a distinctly Milanese version of utilitarianism to complement it. Elegant and beautiful combines with strong and capable to describe who the Cavallini clan are going to be dressing with this autumn. Cavallini is known for beautiful cuts and silhouettes and here they take on new, clean and crisp connotations. The shades of military greens throughout are complemented by muted colours and workwear styles to fill in the ‘strong and capable’ sides of the square. As with all collections based on a theme, sometimes the best moments come when expectations are subverted. Here that comes in the form of unexpectedly bold colours that lands with weight where they make their few appearances, and silhouettes that bring exciting new dimensions to the whole experience. Thus, we have ‘elegant and beautiful’ to complete our square.
One of the highlights of the collection is the use of leather. Whether it’s the material used for the beautiful wide-cut pants, or as an amazingly constructed pleated bodice, or in the pleasingly fetish-adjacent leather stockings, it always feels luxurious, desirable and modern – which is perhaps another way of describing the perfect Cavallini women. The bold colours that stand apart from the greys, blacks and oatmeals also draws the attention. The shocking pink, single-breasted overcoat with the unfinished edges is the definition of modern simplicity – particularly when worn over deep burgundy satin pants. The powder blue worksuit is also something of a triumph, featuring more unfinished edges, a simple rope-tie to accentuate the waist and rounded arms and shoulders on the jacket to add that extra dimension to the look.
It’s those extra dimensions that help to make make the collection so compelling. The electric green, satin jumpsuit is cut to exude a strong and fearless kind of femininity. The mixed tartan check dress is long and slim, while the wide-legged pants in the same colourway is perfectly matched with a similar giant tote bag slung over the shoulder. And its those wide-legged pants that are a stand-out favourite. It doesn’t matter if it’s the high-waisted, khaki versions with the giant turn-ups at the hem, or the black denim versions with the contrast white stitching that are added to the others already mentioned. They are all fantastic pieces – which is perhaps another way of describing the whole Erika Cavallini pre-fall collection.
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