ERDEM SS24 – London Fashion Week
ERDEM channels the late Duchess of Devonshire for LFW. By Magdalen Manning
The new ERDEM SS24 collection at London Fashion Week paid homage to Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire, and her relationship with the historic stately home, Chatsworth House. What transpired was a study in elegance, beauty and romanticism as Erdem Moralıoğlu immersed himself in a journey of legacy through the lens of a particular kind of English eccentricity.
A myriad of textures graced the catwalk – waxed cotton, rich velvet jacquard and ornate organza pieced together fond memories and fables of the woman called ‘Debo’, as the Duchess was lovingly known. Antique textile remnants from Chatsworth House embodied her spirit and deconstructed gowns featured hand-embroidery by Cecily Lasnet, Deborah’s own great-granddaughter.
Backdropped against floral prints, boned corsets in pellucid hues of cream, billowing tulle skirts and pearl drop earring accessories spoke of grace and sophistication. Debo’s known absence of pretention throughout her life was reinterpreted through printed scenery on three-piece satin skirt sets and carefully crafted tapestry prints on faille.
Warmth came represented by tones of royal blues, idyllic mints and sunflower yellows, with pops of bright greens and pinks to personify the late dowager. Metallic crystal embroidered chickens, dragonflies and spiders embellished the edges, in a nod to Debo’s love for frequently “stomping through the gardens and grounds in her Barbour and wellies.”
Traditional English design signifiers were another running motif, with frayed tweed and fluted skirts deconstructing an archetypal style, and lush knit cardis slung over the shoulders and buttoned only at the neck. Silhouettes were fulsome and generous or cut close and delicate. Quilted opera coats (produced in collaboration with Barbour) drew classic empire lines for the eye, while sheer tea dresses in embroidered organza were cinched at the waist and tantalisingly teamed with arm-length leather gloves.
ERDEM SS24’s celebration of the late Duchess’ vision and her dedication to Chatsworth House displays all of her rebellion and independence, and encapsulates everything she stood for. As the show notes read, “a single person driven by passion beyond duty, inspired by the past and the future, can be a powerful force.”
To read our review of the ERDEM AW23 show from LFW, click here
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