Emporio Armani Men’s SS24 – Milan Fashion Week
Michael Meir-White looks back at the new collection from MFW
The Emporio Armani men’s SS24 collection at Milan Fashion Week was a remarkable display of visual artistry. Evoking nocturnal scenes to transport us into a world of enchanting fashion aesthetics, the collection was delivered with a sense of wonder and awe. Aptly named The Essence of the Night, we were treated to new interpretations of the Moon’s shimmering reflection on obsidian seas and the imposing vistas of North African deserts. This latest proposition embodied the legendary House’s design principles in their purest forms.
With a precise colour palette described as ‘compact,’ the stark juxtaposition of inky blacks and striking shades of white perfectly encapsulated the stillness of midnight. Regular intervals of neutral and sand tones offered a delicate balance between land and sea. Coruscating threads imparted an alluring romanticism to ribbed jumpers, blazers, and weekend bags as though looking at lights in a night-time cityscape.
Explorations of form and fluidity were a constant theme throughout the collection. Wide-legged trousers gracefully flowed like waves, while sleeveless tunics and oversized shirts slashed to the navel appeared to undulate like ripples on a pond. Seamless combinations of Far Eastern and Northern African cultural influences informed robe jackets, sweeping duster coats and draped silhouettes that told their own stories with movement.
SS24’s recurrent motif appeared as stylised versions of the venerable Ginkgo leaf in intricate cutouts on tailored jackets, contrasting prints on duster coats and blossoming accoutrements on sheer blouses. Known for its strength and adaptability, here it was recontextualised as a symbol of resilience and elegance – a metaphor for a style that is made to be ‘at once timely and timeless.’
Covering the spread from day, evening and night, The Essence of the Night is a cinematic collection made to appeal to the sensual warmth and romanticism in us all for summers in the city.
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