5th July 2023

Dior Haute Couture AW23

Maria Grazia Chiuri takes inspiration from ancient idols for couture AW23.

For Dior haute couture AW23, artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri introduced us to her singular contemporary vision of the ancient goddess.  Everywhere there were subtle flirtations with the type of Greek and Roman idols that were once so revered around the world.  The air was elegant, unfussy and regal, with clean lines and sartorial flourishes marking our journey along the way.

Long silhouettes quickly became the foundation on which the story was built.  Almost everything was extended down to the tippy toes.  Hidden beneath the flowing hems, flat Grecian sandals accompanied each look; rhythmically popping out to say hello as our cast stepped along the long promenade.  Equally impressive tunics, capes and stoles just added to the sense of otherworldly charm on display.

Clean whites and neutrals described the palette of the first half of the collection and perfectly centred on the exquisite tailoring of the double-breasted skirt suits and column-like collarless evening coats.  By the time we were treated to the silvers and burnished golds, we were in the domain of softer, more fluid outlines.  With the embellished mesh dresses featuring flared sleeves and gold leaf hems to the spectacular crushed silver evening gowns with gathered waists and plunging V-necklines, the romanticism was impossible to ignore.

In the moments when the palette diverted into blacks and greys, opportunities were taken with shape and structure.  One style of tunic featured short bell sleeves and pleating gathered to the waist, while the matching tulip bulb skirt drew the eyes to the same destination.   Another style of tunic flattened the proposition with no sleeves and a skirt in a softer fabric to enhance the overall drape.

In essence, Dior haute couture AW23 was an illustration of the strength as well as the fragility of femininity.  The two sides of the same coin the Maison has been catering to worldwide for 77 years.


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