26th May 2023

Dior Cruise 2024

Maria Grazia Chiuri takes the new collection to the home of Mexican art

It would be hard to unveil an important new fashion collection in Mexico and not invoke the artistry of one of its favourite daughters, the incomparable Frida Kahlo.  And so it was for Maria Grazia Chiuri and her picturesque Dior Cruise 2024 show at the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso in Mexico City – where Kahlo herself had once studied and met artist Diego Rivera, the love of her life.  The light rain that fell onto the spacious courtyard only added to the air of tropical romance and culture that the cast went on to showcase in the expansive 90+ look collection.

This underlying theme came through crystal clear in the silhouettes seen throughout – with delicate capped sleeves extending the shoulders like angel’s wings coupled with soft A-line figures to mimic the sketch of a moth by Madame Andrée Brossin de Méré from the Dior archives.  Chiuri similarly channelled Kahlo’s famously contrary personal style into the delicious variations of the masculine suit threaded through the looks.

As the Spanish-language declarations of “amore” on the soundtrack gave way to a lilting Mariachi love song, it became obvious why Chiuri referred to Mexico as “a place of the soul.”  Echoing local Tehuana custom, traditional tunics worn with full-flowing skirts made for meadow or prairie hopping developed this story further.

Colours came in more neutral or sandy tones – seen in the lace tops and long column skirts perfect for relaxing on the veranda.  Sometimes the tones featured flecks of colours in the sumptuous floral prints, sometimes they were forcefully punctuated with full dresses in bright pinks and iridescent reds.  Even the exquisite original embroideries adorning dresses and shirts came from the expert hands of local artisans.

The running motifs of butterflies, parrots and monkeys, alongside Mexican flora and fauna, were exciting diversions that drew straight lines for us to Kahlo’s iconic paintings.  By the end we were all agreed, if we weren’t going to get to Mexico next year, Dior Cruise 2024 will at least bring all of the country’s romance to us.


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