Burberry Spring 2024
The recent collection marks Lee's new vision for the British House. By THE FALL
As the saying goes, big ships take longer to turn. After the announcement of Daniel Lee’s appointment to succeed Ricardo Tisci at the end of last year, the recently unveiled Burberry spring 202424 collection acts as the de-facto signal that his reign has now begun in earnest. What’s immediately obvious with the new proposition is how codes from the British House’s extensive fashion archives have been reimagined through Lee’s own uniquely creative prism.
In one interpretation, the famous Burberry Check takes on a new, more fluid life. On tailored suits, expansive trench coats and form-fitting dresses, the check pattern graduates from small to big like a new kind of Doppler shift. Within those patterns movement is implied by the organic wavy lines of the check. The effect holds your eyes as you wait for them to adjust so other details, like asymmetric zips on the dresses and overlong sleeves on the jackets and coats can also be enjoyed.
This conceit of patterning is replicated elsewhere in the collection, with repeated flocked rose designs carried through to hooded, floor-length silk chiffon gowns, field and bomber jackets, and in vibrant red and contrasting white on the turn ups and cuffs of the Knight blue denim jackets and jeans. While the opening of the narrative revolves around monochrome tones, the palette opens up to include sherbet, cameo, ivy, rhubarb and khaki on looks like the ski-suit inspired sweater and bootcut trousers combo, or the beautiful faux fur coat accessorised with a crushed rose bag and zipped and chunky knee-high boots.
The flourishes to the collection continue in the form of the innovative silhouettes on display. In places it’s handled subtlety – Savile Row style tailoring with clean lines extended beyond the norm, for example. In other places, giant faux fur ski hats with oversized earmuffs and large Shield bags from the Knight bag family upgrade the outlines with a touch of artistic eccentricity. It’s precisely because of these contemporary design sensibilities from Lee that we’re now all anticipating how they’ll next be applied to Burberry’s British wardrobe archetypes in the coming new era.
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