Burberry AW23 – London Fashion Week
Jodi Bhachu-Smith takes a looks at the start of a new era for the luxury fashion House
Daniel Lee and Burberry have always shared one thing in common: they’re both quintessentially British. So, for his debut Burberry AW23 collection, Lee embraced the most stereotypically British concept in the book – rainy weather. After all, the foundational and emblematic trench coat on which the House was built was always the stylish and pragmatic solution for a downpour.
Lee took creative licence with a newly envisioned trench coat, sporting a slouchy fit and voluminous faux fur lapels. And there were the bold bias kilts in tartan prints as alternatives to the traditional Burberry check. As with his previous work, it was clear Lee was speaking to the edgy sensibilities of a younger audience.
Through the language of oversized tailoring and graphic print Tees aptly emblazoned with the slogan ‘THE WINDS OF CHANGE,’ irreverent fun was key to understanding the spirit behind the collection. Novel duck print fabrics and chic, coordinated hot water bottles as accessories added some of that humorous subtext to the silhouettes.
Whilst heritage informed large parts of the collection, the evolution of the brand in Lee’s eyes became clear in the reimagined Equestrian Knight Design. To further embellish the homegrown thread, iconic British roses were woven throughout Lee’s storytelling, while subtle nods to the brand’s equestrian soul came in the form of deep purple riding boots.
Edges were softened with chunky Aran and argyle sweaters, long wrap blankets and shearling coats. But the exploration of the outdoors continued with the appearance of classy rubber rain boots, and satchels and saddle bags in durable colours fastened by the emblematic ‘B’. Given Lee’s success at Bottega Veneta with accessories, Burberry’s bold new era just began with a very bright spark.
To read our review of the Saul Nash show from LFW, click here
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