27th October 2023

Alexander McQueen Pre-SS24 Menswear

The real and unreal come together for Sarah Burton's final menswear collection for the House. By THE FALL

Since its inception, the legendary British fashion House has won numerous global plaudits for its ever-evolving concepts on cut and proportion each season.  Nowhere is this approach better displayed than with the newly-unveiled Alexander McQueen pre-SS24 menswear collection.  Here again, familiar classic tailoring modes have been filtered through the McQueen prism, this time for juxtaposed narratives of ‘eased formality’ and the ‘real and unreal’.

With single and double-breasted suits acting as the foundations, we see wide peaked lapels and cigarette-slim trousers hemmed at the ankles or tucked into Tread Slick boots, or wide high-waisted pleated trousers that instead break at the shoe.  Immediately, it all heralds the welcome return of cutlass-sharp contemporary outlines underwritten by a high fashion IQ.

Even when the gaze turns to looks on the more casual end of the spectrum, that modern-day edge to the designs is always there doing the heavy lifting.  Flared ivory long shorts finish at mid-shin, while high-waisted, wide-legged cotton twill trousers with in the same colour come with giant turn-ups that brush the floor.  There are crew-neck sweaters with large three-dimensional mesh knits, MA1 bomber jackets with detachable harness sleeves, and biker jacket and trousers combos in distressed black leather paired white cotton shirts and black leather ties.

The modernism to the collection is underscored by the starkly monochromatic palette, occasionally broken up with bold graphic prints of obscured florals in bright yellows and hazy pinks.  Other subplots feature fantastical dragonfly motifs emblazoned across knitwear and suit jackets, sometimes in black and white shadow prints, sometimes rendered in beautiful crystal appliqués and embroidery.

Alexander McQueen pre-SS24 menswear stands out as optimum dressing for a 21st century life, and marks one of the last collections for Sarah Burton before new creative director Seán McGirr takes over in the hot seat.  It looks like it’s turned into a really great way to go out.


To read our last feature on Alexander McQueen, click here

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