18th July 2023

Alexander McQueen Menswear SS24

The McQueen legacy on cut and anatomy continues for SS24. By THE FALL

Alexander McQueen menswear SS24 sees creative director Sarah Burton explore yet more of the architectural delights that have become synonymous with the famed British fashion House since its beginnings.  For Burton, the sharpness of the cut and the simplicity of the lines are going to be key to looking right next summer, and yet her proposition is also underwritten with a singular artistry and considered contemporary flair.

A modernist’s view on the traditional tailored silhouette stands out as the headline for the collection.  Oversized rounded shoulders on double-breasted coats and jackets in scuba wool adds a Wes Anderson-esque twist to razor-sharp shirts and ties teamed with drainpipe trousers and McQueen’s iconic Tread Slick boots.  The cinematic appeal continues with the tailored short shorts and knee-high boots coupled with jacket, shirt and tie for different ideas on a men’s suit.

To flesh out the dimensions, a measure of draping is also added to the silhouettes.  Dropped-shoulder casual shirts are hitched at the elbow and loosely tucked into wide-legged pleated trousers featuring softer lines.  Sweeping cape parkas come with big knotted flourishes at the neck and floor-length capes are mesmerising in Simon Ungless’ black and gold graphic fold print.

Ungless himself is as much a part of McQueen history as the designs that carry his work, and his unique fold print is also seen adorning denim jeans, suiting and tailored coats narrowed at the waist to create subtle geometric shapes.  We move even further into the artistic pursuits with tank tops constructed entirely from three-dimensional hand-crocheted knit and chiaroscuro flowers inspired by Dutch Old Master paintings.

To match the sharp edges, McQueen’s SS24 story is told mostly in black and white, with deliberate injections of lemon yellows and candy pinks adding welcome touches of turbulence to keep us on our toes.  And, as always, details are king (McQueen?): metallic flower brooches on lapels, duffle bags in sumptuous grained calf leather, and extended panelling to the rear of jackets are all there to indulge the eyes for our time in the summer spotlight next year.


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