Acne Studios SS23 – Paris Fashion Week
Harriet Taylor reviews the new collection at PFW
In the slew of tributes that dotted our recent fashion calendars, none were quite as anticipated – or as intimate – as Acne Studio’s 10-year anniversary celebration at this season’s Paris Fashion Week. The show itself was themed as an ode to weddings, perhaps speaking to creative director Jonny Johansson’s wish to memorialise the decade of marital bliss, for richer or poorer, between Stockholm, where his brand was founded, and Paris, its current home.
Johansson presented to the world a collection that vividly recounted the kitschy, wide-eyed femininity that embodies a new bride on her wedding night. From the deconstructed ornamental bows that were recurring talking points throughout, to the introduction of a number of gingham print ensembles to the Juno Calypso-esque bedroom set, we were all witnessing a playful rendition of Acne’s minimalist aesthetic.
The warm colour palette of pastel pinks, blues, and violets transposed into deep scarlets and browns to complement relaxed formalwear pieces. Oversized tailored jackets with dropped shoulders dipped into feelings of borrowed masculinity to contrast with the delicate romance seen in the shift dresses and skirts with the sweeping drape detailing. Lace, silk, transparent petticoat tulle, and fine crochet knits enhanced the collection alongside hand-painted leathers and garment-dyed cotton to further play into this dialogue.
In an added creative marriage, Johansson also collaborated with Ivorian jewellery designer Lafalaise Dion to create all of the cowrie shell accessories that dressed many of the looks. Similarly, artist Katarina Jebb, a friend of Johansson’s, scanned archival pieces from the Musée de la Mode – the venue of Acne Studio’s first show in Paris, 10 years ago – to layer onto fabrics and conceptually blend the two eras.
For Acne Studios SS23, Johansson gleefully captured the carefree joie de vivre of a young blushing bride. Yet, in amongst all the skittish romanticism, there was a fundamental appreciation of modern silhouettes and tried-and-tested glamour to build a successful long-term relationship on.
For more information on Acne Studios SS23, click here
Click here to read the Rick Owens Paris Fashion Week review