Moschino Prefall Womenswear and Fall Menswear 2022
Georgia Hambury looks into the bright lights of the Italian House's autumn 2022
The audacious arrival of Moschino’s Prefall Womenswear and Fall Menswear 2022 collection sees the luxury fashion house offering playful concepts and theories incorporating thigh-high lace ups, nail stilettos and bubblegum bobs. The pieces deliver a smooth, supple space to glide amongst tranquilly. A-line silhouettes with soft floating satin and a classical Italian finesse are ever-present. Soft buttons adorn the new-age military display, with bold outlines and stretches of gradient colours that recall reflections of Richard Lindner’s and Fernand Léger’s art.
Through the lens of filmmaker Jeremy Eichenbaud, the collection film is presented framed by a black film negative, with a soft glow coating the collection in a buttery haze. Classical camera angles are used to highlight the structured architecture of the designs and Kabuki’s chromatic make-up artistry. The film soothingly ebbs and flows to allow for a hypnotic sensibility and an opaque double-vision that lends itself to the psychedelic journey Scott is taking us on.
The cast’s androgynous allure evokes British Pop artist Allen Jones’ exploration into traditional male and female power dynamics, and the presence of gimp masks, oil slick latex and models bound by belts and bodices delivers an ode to Jones’ own celebration and satire of BDSM practices. “A lot of my collections are informed by nostalgia,” Scott once said. And here, Scott offers us a glimpse by breathing new life into the signature orange bob and top hat that made Alex such an iconic character in Stanley Kubrick’s A Clockwork Orange.
Symmetry, bold strokes and captivating theories on design are sure to see many lining up to join Jeremy Scott’s pop army.
Photos by Marcus Mam courtesy of Moschino
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