Mains SS24 – London Fashion Week
Recording artist Skepta debuts his first collection at LFW. By THE FALL
Following on from the recent surprise appointment of Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton menswear at the beginning of the year, the intersection between fashion, entertainment and music came into even sharper relief with the hugely anticipated and much talked about debut of the Mains SS24 collection at London Fashion Week.
The main fascination (pun intended) was due to the fact that Mains is the brainchild of renowned UK Grime artist, rapper and now creative director Skepta in conjunction with his partner-in-crime, designer Mikey Pearce. The conclusion was that the show delivered all the hype you’d expect – plus added some pleasant surprises few were expecting. This first showing at LFW was a long six years in the making, after the brand was born on 2017 but had to weather difficult growing pains to break through to the other end.
The surprise to the collection was that it was not the sort of ‘bling-bling’ documentary of a rapper’s wardrobe we might have been expecting (or, at least, suspecting). Instead it was a real 41-look proposition that showed technique, rhythm and, naturally, artistic and aesthetic flair.
Built on foundations of urban sportswear codes, like track pants and jackets with graphic inlays and coloured panelling, crisp board shorts and tank tops with white trim detailing, the Skepta vision also included tailoring with volume, intricate knitwear and smooth motorcycle-ready leathers. Denim jackets, jeans and dungarees featured prominent contrast stitching and pockets at interesting, new jaunty angles.
Perhaps the only real concession to rap video sensibilities were seen in the heavy use of logos on sweaters, shirts and hats. But even here they were handled with a sophistication that belies the newness of the brand. Large embroidered ‘M’ symbols and intarsia tennis scenes and reproductions of Tupac Shakur’s infamous 1995 mugshot added the right kind of relevance to a night that included the likes of Stormzy, Louis Theroux and Naomi Campbell in the inaugural front row.
As Skepta and his ecstatic four-year-old daughter took the plaudits after the finale, it was clear that Mains had finally set the stage for a bright and innovative future in British fashion.
To read our review of the David Koma SS24 show at LFW, click here
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