Gucci SS24 – Milan Fashion Week
The new era begins at the legendary Italian House. By THE FALL
And, just like that, a new era had begun. Milan Fashion Week finally saw the long-anticipated debut collection for Gucci SS24 by newly-appointed creative director Sabato de Sarno. The most iconic of Italian Houses had now turned the page on the creative relationship with Alessandro Michele and firmly set its sights on the chapters ahead yet to be written. What became immediately clear is that de Sarno was going to be writing an enthralling but very different story moving forward.
“A story of richness and lust/desire,” exclaimed the designer in the show notes. “It is completely free and filled with euphoria. It is a story of fabulous, diverse people, of movies, of my beloved Italy.” If it wasn’t for the unpredictability of Mother Nature, the show would have been held on the streets of Italy to fulfil those desires. It is, however, an insight into a recognition that the connection to a wider fashion audience would be a priority of his new Gucci.
In the end, the Gucci HQ ably substituted for the Milanese thoroughfares. On the catwalk, de Sarno’s lofty aspirations were synthesised down into a clean, coherent narrative of crisp lines, exquisite tailoring and the kind of understated contemporary glamour that had perhaps been too overlooked by different eyes in recent years. Ancora, as the collection had been christened – Provaci ancora: to ‘try it again’.
Deceptively simple silhouettes formed the foundations, with smaller preferred to bigger. Mini-dresses came in shoulderless empire line, in logo-embossed leather or with lingerie lace and spaghetti straps. Thigh-exposing mini-shorts came tailored or in leather. Crystal-encrusted mini-bralettes were teamed with mini bags in the same. Chic skirts had nose-bleed slits and short sleeve playsuits featured the iconic Horesbit chain adorning the mini pockets.
The colour palette was likewise considered and decidedly non-psychedelic. Icings on the cake included the new wedge loafers and the embellished Jackie bags to signal a parallel re-assessment of Gucci’s relationship with the luxury goods market. But, judging by the heaviest of heavyweight front rows – Julia Roberts, Ryan Gosling, Kendall Jenner, Jodie Comer, Mark Ronson, Bad Bunny – there’ll be no re-assessment needed regarding the relationship of de Sarno’s new Gucci to the culture.
Click here to read our review of the Gucci men’s SS24 show from MFW
For more information on Gucci SS24, click here