Chanel SS24 – Paris Fashion Week
Cubist architecture was just one of the inspirations for next summer at PFW. By Mya Bungar
“An ode to liberty and movement,” the Chanel SS24 collection was fittingly inspired by the early 20th century home of Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles, villa Noailles, that, in turn, served as the show’s backdrop at Paris Fashion Week. The geometric gardens and cubist architecture offset by brimming foliage and expanses of water were the main focuses for artistic director Virginie Viard, whose collection personified the joie de vivre this idyllic setting evoked for her.
Patchwork, lines, checks, and stripes complemented the Maison’s signature tweed in ponchos effortlessly swung across the shoulder and ankle-length caftans with deep plunging necklines. Opposites attracted on the runway as sports-inspired neoprene blazers with inverted lapels came juxtaposed against transparent ruffled eveningwear made of tulle and lace. “I tried to bring one thing and its opposite together in the coolest way possible,” explained the designer.
Viard’s cast also came holiday ready in an assortment of poolside essentials, such as sheer swimwear coverups and bathing suits embossed with the iconic double ‘C’ logo. Nautical references continued in the form of long-sleeved Breton striped shirts, a beloved pattern by the Maison’s founder Coco Chanel who popularised the design in the 1910s. This summery, seaside aesthetic was reinforced by the unstructured nature of each look. Suits were unlined and lightweight, whilst sunray pleated blouses and wide leg, knee-length shorts encouraged freedom and motion with each step.
References from the past were also prevalent for the future in many of the accessories. The metallic gold straps fastened to black eyewear were identical to classic Chanel Flap bags, and flat slingback Mary Janes reminded us of Lagerfeld’s dainty ballerina pumps. Statement necklaces that varied in length were stacked and layered over one another, and mini handbags had pearly hardware to catch the eyes as they passed us by.
Each look presented to us for Chanel SS24 was effortless and carefree. Even when incorporating assortments of accessories and bold, geometric patterns, Viard captured her summer with sophistication and refined informality in equal measure. While homage was paid to Chanel’s long-standing House codes, the elegance and insouciance so closely tied to the brand ultimately stood out as the real winners of the day.
To read our review of the Chanel AW23 show from PFW, click here
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