19th September 2023

Burberry SS24 – London Fashion Week

Daniel Lee has a day out at the park for his second show at LFW. By THE FALL

For those of us travelling through central London on the tube recently, you might have been fortunate enough to encounter Bond St station and its makeover in Burberry blue to mark Daniel Lee’s triumphant return to London Fashion Week for the Burberry SS24 collection.  The show was undoubtedly the biggest of the of the British calendar and as such, its presence was felt on the wider culture long before we actually got to see Lee’s important second collection for the House.

The designer used his encore to continue rebalancing the new Burberry in his own image by holding the show in a large tent in a park beside a food truck on Islington’s Highbury Fields, reinforcing that particular sense of ‘outdoor Britishness’ he’s been bringing back to all aspects of the brand since taking over from Ricardo Tisci last year.

On the catwalk we saw that intention replicated in the simplicity and elegance of the trench coat for both men and women.  Traditional black and tan versions with asymmetric lapels formed the baseline, with alternatives in ice white featuring all-over bold graphic prints of thick chain links attached to carabiner clips.

This same chain link print became a theme we were invited to revisit a number of times throughout the show – on chic dresses with metal hoop trims or with tiered ruffled skirts, on easy-flowing shirts loosely tucked in, or printed on the front of casual black trousers for men to add extra intrigue to a familiar wardrobe staple.  It was even seen IRL attaching shoulder straps to leather bags accompanying various looks down the catwalk.

The designer’s colours for next summer demurred on the side of muted, with the occasional deep reds or greens and the House’s now (London) famous Knight blue anchoring a story told mostly in blacks and tans.  Floral dresses added bursts of yellows, oranges and sky blues to evoke English country summer meadows and gardens.

Would it be too bold to say this was Burberry at its finest?  Judging by the reaction of a front row that included singer Kylie Minogue, actors Rachel Weisz, Naomi Ackie and Jason Statham, and Olympic star Mo Farah, Daniel Lee has definitely found his groove for where he wants to take British fashion in the future.

 

To read our review of the Burberry AW23 show from LFW, click here

Click here for more information on Burberry SS24

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