Alexander McQueen Menswear S/S2022

Inspiration can come in many forms. For Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen that form took the shape of celebrated English poet and artist William Blake.  In truth, Blake has been an inspiration for many contemporary artists of varied disciplines for decades already.  But for Burton, it was ‘the concept of imagination as a pure form of escapism’ in his work that spoke to her for this collection.  The sharp eye and unrivalled talent of Lee McQueen is alive and well in his successor, it seems.

Zips play a big part of McQueen’s 2022 summer for men, and here they are used for their form rather than their function.  Contrast silver tone zips snake around the arms of the black, single button, single-breasted jacket and twist down the legs of the matching trousers.  Elsewhere, they are used in suit jackets where they can be unzipped to extend the shape of the jacket itself when opened up.

As always, the tailoring is a sight to behold.  However, as has been happening across many fashion ateliers across the world in recent times, the very definition of menswear – what constitutes ‘masculine clothes’ – finds another exciting challenger to the perceived norms and standards.  The familiar formal silhouette of the tuxedo suit is re-imagined as a sleeveless offering embellished with with extravagant, oversized asymmetric frill detailing to totally redefine the shape and start new conversations.  The beautiful double-breasted, knee-length black coat features the same, but this time with added sleeves.

This concept is carried through to the the fullest extent with the men’s dress featuring an extraordinary frilled, tiered ankle-length skirt in graduated tones of blue, aqua and white.  The effect is like breaking waves as the tide comes in and meets the tank style top to this dress featuring a Blake reproduction.  Blake’s fingertips are seen in other places – the full suit and shirt combination and the collarless, extravagantly frilled shirt and trousers combination, for example.  No collection would be complete with the McQueen signature, though.  And the plain white vest top embroidered with the brand name among the branches of an ominous naked tree while a seated skeleton in the corner collects its thoughts, brings everything home with a satisfying pop.

“No birds soar too high if (s)he soars with his own wings,” said William Blake.  Let’s see how high Sarah Burton can go.

To see our last feature on Alexander McQueen, click here.

Click here for more information on Alexander McQueen.